The Windsor of the North
If you ask a child what a castle should look like, they will picture Alnwick Castle (pronounced 'Ann-ick'). With its massive stone towers, crenellated walls, and statues of warriors peering over the battlements, it is the archetype of a medieval fortress. Located in Northumberland, near the Scottish border, it is the second-largest inhabited castle in the UK, second only to Windsor Castle. But unlike many cold, drafty castles, Alnwick is very much alive. It has been the home of the Percy family, the Dukes of Northumberland, for over 700 years, and the current 12th Duke and Duchess still live there.
The Percy Dynasty
To understand Alnwick, you must understand the Percys. They were one of the most powerful families in medieval England, ruling the north like kings. The most famous of them was Harry 'Hotspur' Percy, a medieval knight so fearless that he became a central character in Shakespeare's Henry IV. He was born at Alnwick in 1364 and was famous for his speed and aggression in battle (hence 'Hotspur').
For centuries, the Percys stood as the first line of defense against Scottish invasions. The castle bears the scars of countless sieges. The grim stone figures on the battlements were not just decoration; they were designed to confuse attackers into thinking the walls were heavily manned even when the garrison was asleep.
Hogwarts and Hollywood
For millions of people around the world, Alnwick is not known as the home of the Percys, but as Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry. The castle starred in the first two Harry Potter films (*The Philosopher's Stone* and *The Chamber of Secrets*).
- The Flying Lesson: The Outer Bailey is the exact spot where Madame Hooch taught Harry and his classmates how to fly their broomsticks. Today, 'Broomstick Training' is included in the entrance ticket. It is a hilarious sight to see adults and children alike jumping in the air while a 'professor' photographs them to look like they are flying.
- The Crash Landing: The Lion Arch gate is where the Weasley's flying Ford Anglia crashed into the Whomping Willow (though the tree was CGI, the wall was real).
But Harry Potter isn't Alnwick's only claim to fame. It also featured as Brancaster Castle in two Christmas specials of Downton Abbey and appeared in Transformers: The Last Knight and Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves.
The Italianate Palace
Walking from the rugged, wind-battered courtyards into the State Rooms is a shock to the system. The interior is a lavish Italianate palace that rivals anything in Rome or Venice. In the 19th century, the 4th Duke decided to remodel the drafty medieval rooms in the style of the Italian Renaissance.
- The Library: With nearly 14,000 books and a coffered ceiling that glows with gold leaf, this is widely considered one of the finest private libraries in England. It is a bibliophile's dream.
- The Art Collection: The walls are lined with masterpieces by Titian, Van Dyck, Canaletto, and Tintoretto. The furniture includes cabinets that once belonged to Louis XIV of France. It is a reminder of the immense wealth and power the Percy family commanded.
The Alnwick Garden
Separated from the castle by a short walk is The Alnwick Garden. This is not a dusty old garden; it is a bold, modern creation driven by the vision of the current Duchess, Jane Percy.
The Poison Garden
The most famous (and dangerous) part of the garden is the Poison Garden. Kept behind black iron gates decorated with skull-and-crossbones signs that say 'These Plants Can Kill', this garden contains over 100 toxic, intoxicating, and narcotic plants. Guides are mandatory, and visitors are strictly forbidden from touching, smelling, or tasting anything. You will see deadly nightshade, hemlock (what killed Socrates), ricin (castor oil plant), and even cannabis and opium poppies (grown with a special government license). It is a fascinating educational tool about the darker side of nature.
The Treehouse
Another highlight is the Treehouse Restaurant. It is the largest wooden treehouse in the world, a labyrinth of walkways, rope bridges, and dining rooms built high in the canopy of lime trees. It feels like an Ewok village or something from *Swiss Family Robinson*, complete with a roaring log fire in the center of the restaurant.
Visitor Information
Alnwick is a full-day destination.
- Tickets: You can buy tickets for the Castle, the Garden, or a combined ticket. The combined ticket is better value if you have the time (allow at least 4-5 hours).
- Opening Times: The castle is open daily from late March to late October. It closes for the winter (the family needs their privacy sometime!). The Garden is open year-round.
- Getting There: Alnwick is just off the A1. The nearest train station is Alnmouth (4 miles away), from which you can catch a bus or taxi.
- Events: Check the schedule before you go. The castle hosts medieval jousting tournaments, falconry displays, and dragon quests throughout the summer that are excellent for families.