The Floating Fortress of Lake Garda
There are few sights in Italy as arresting as the Castello Scaligero (Scaliger Castle) in Sirmione. Located at the very tip of a long, narrow peninsula that juts into the southern end of Lake Garda, it appears to float on the turquoise water. It is a masterpiece of medieval military engineering, a "water castle" in the truest sense, with its walls rising directly from the lake and its own fortified harbor protecting the fleet.
For centuries, this castle was the strategic key to controlling Lake Garda. Today, it is one of the best-preserved castles in Italy and the fairytale gateway to the historic town of Sirmione. To enter the old town, everyone—tourist or local—must cross the castle's drawbridge, passing under the watchful gaze of the main tower just as travelers did 700 years ago.
The Iron Hand of the Scaligers
The castle bears the name of the Della Scala family (the Scaligers), the powerful dynasty that ruled Verona and much of the Veneto region in the 13th and 14th centuries. The family emblem—a ladder (scala in Italian)—can be seen carved into the stone throughout the fortress.
Construction began around 1360 under the orders of Cansignorio della Scala. Sirmione had been a fortified post since Roman times, but Cansignorio wanted a state-of-the-art stronghold to defend his territory against the rival Visconti family of Milan and to crush any local rebellions. He built upon existing Roman and early medieval fortifications, creating the complex we see today. The castle served not only as a defense but also as a toll station for the lucrative trade routes on the lake.
The Scaliger rule ended in 1387 when the Visconti captured the castle. It later passed to the Republic of Venice in 1405. The Venetians, masters of the sea, recognized the importance of the castle's harbor and expanded the wet dock (darsena). However, as military technology advanced and the strategic focus shifted, the castle slowly lost its importance, becoming a simple garrison and weapons depot before being recognized as a national monument in the modern era.
Architecture: The Swallowtail Battlements
The castle is a textbook example of Veronese military architecture. The most distinctive feature is the crenellation along the tops of the walls and towers. These "swallowtail" or "M-shaped" merlons (known as Ghibelline merlons) are a signature of castles loyal to the Holy Roman Emperor (as opposed to the square Guelph merlons of the Papal faction). At Sirmione, they create a rhythmic, jagged silhouette against the sky.
The layout consists of a main courtyard surrounded by four curtain walls and three corner towers. The massive main keep (Mastio) stands 47 meters high, dominating the complex. It was the last refuge for the garrison if the outer walls were breached. The walls are built of alternating bands of white stone from the nearby quarries and red brick, a technique that is both decorative and structural.
The Darsena: A Medieval Harbor
The most unique and spectacular part of the castle is the darsena (dockyard). It is one of the few surviving examples of a 14th-century fortified harbor in the world. The basin is enclosed by high walls with towers at the corners, protecting the Scaliger fleet from enemy attacks and storms. The entrance from the lake was guarded by a heavy chain that could be raised or lowered.
Walking along the ramparts of the darsena today is an unforgettable experience. You are suspended over the water, with the colorful boats of modern tourists bobbing where medieval war galleys once anchored.
The Legend of Ebengardo and Arice
Like any romantic castle, Castello Scaligero has a tragic ghost story. Legend tells of a noble youth named Ebengardo who lived in the castle with his beautiful lover, Arice. One stormy night, a knight from the rival Veneto region, Elalberto, knocked on the gate seeking shelter.
Ebengardo, bound by the laws of hospitality, let him in. However, Elalberto was struck by Arice's beauty and tried to force himself upon her in her chamber. Arice fought back bravely but was stabbed to death by the intruder. Hearing her screams, Ebengardo rushed to the room, but he was too late. In a blind rage, he seized the dagger and killed Elalberto.
Overcome with grief at his failure to protect his love, Ebengardo wasted away. It is said that his ghost still haunts the castle on stormy nights, wandering the corridors and searching for his lost Arice. Visitors have reported cold spots and a sense of profound sadness in the residential wing of the castle.
The Ghost of Catullus?
While not strictly a castle legend, the spirit of the Roman poet Catullus looms over Sirmione. He had a villa here (the ruins of a massive Roman villa at the tip of the peninsula are traditionally called the "Grotte di Catullo," though they likely belonged to a wealthier family). Some locals claim that on quiet summer evenings, you can hear the whisper of Latin verse carried on the wind around the castle walls, a reminder that Sirmione was a place of beauty long before it was a fortress.
Planning Your Visit
Sirmione is incredibly popular, especially in the summer. The castle is the bottleneck for entering the town.
- Climbing the Tower: The highlight of any visit is climbing the 146 steps to the top of the Keep. The view is panoramic: you can see the entire layout of the castle, the darsena, the terracotta roofs of Sirmione, and the shimmering expanse of Lake Garda stretching to the Alps in the north.
- The Walkways: Your ticket allows you to walk along the patrol paths (camminamenti) of the walls. It gives you a soldier's-eye view of the defenses and the drawbridge below.
- Arriving by Boat: The best way to appreciate the "floating" nature of the castle is to arrive by ferry from Desenzano or Peschiera. Seeing the towers rise from the water as you approach is a magical introduction.
- Accessibility: This is a medieval fortress. There are many stairs, uneven cobblestones, and narrow passages. It is not wheelchair accessible, and strollers must be left at the entrance.
Castello Scaligero is a bridge between worlds—between the land and the lake, between the Middle Ages and the present. It stands as a reminder of a time when beauty and strength were one and the same.