The Guardian of Lisbon
Visible from almost every square and alleyway in downtown Lisbon, the Castelo de São Jorge (Saint George's Castle) stands as a timeless sentinel atop the city's highest hill. It is the cradle of Lisbon's history, a site that has been fortified for over two millennia. More than just a tourist attraction, it is a symbol of Portuguese nationhood and resilience. From its ramparts, visitors command the most spectacular 360-degree panorama of the capital: a sea of terracotta rooftops, the white domes of churches, and the glittering expanse of the Tagus River stretching out to the Atlantic Ocean. While today it is a place of leisure where peacocks roam freely among the pines, its walls echo with the sounds of sieges, royal intrigue, and the birth of a kingdom.
History: From Moors to Monarchs
The site's defensive value was recognized long before the castle took its current form. Archaeologists have found traces of Iron Age settlements, followed by Romans, Visigoths, and Moors. However, the castle structure we recognize today is largely of Islamic origin, built in the mid-11th century by the Moors who ruled Al-Andalus. For them, it was the 'Alcáçova', a fortified citadel that housed the governor and the elite, protecting the bustling medina (now the Alfama district) below.
The turning point came in 1147. Dom Afonso Henriques, the first King of Portugal, laid siege to Lisbon with the help of Crusaders from Northern Europe who were on their way to the Holy Land. After a grueling four-month siege, the city fell, marking a pivotal moment in the Reconquista. The castle was dedicated to Saint George, the patron saint of England, honoring the English crusaders who assisted in the capture.
For the next four centuries, the castle was the epicenter of power. It was transformed into the Royal Palace (Paço da Alcáçova). It was here that King Manuel I received Vasco da Gama after his voyage to India, marking the start of the Age of Discovery. It was also here that the playwright Gil Vicente performed his first works. However, in the early 16th century, the court moved to a new palace by the river (modern-day Praça do Comércio), and the castle began to decline. The catastrophe of the 1755 Great Earthquake destroyed much of the medieval structure. For decades, it remained a ruin, used as a military barracks, until a massive restoration project in the 1940s, under the Estado Novo regime, rebuilt the battlements and returned the castle to its medieval grandeur.
Architecture: A Citadel of Eleven Towers
The castle is a classic example of military architecture, designed purely for defense rather than comfort. It covers an area of about 6,000 square meters. The core of the complex is the citadel itself, protected by a barbican and a dry moat. A series of steps and walkways connect the ramparts, allowing visitors to walk the full perimeter of the walls.
The Towers
The castle boasts eleven rectangular towers. The most significant is the Torre de Menagem (Keep), which was the final stronghold. Another notable tower is the Torre do Tombo, which once housed the royal archives (now the National Archive of Portugal, though moved to a modern building, retains the name). The Torre de Ulisses (Ulysses Tower) formerly housed the royal treasure and archives; today, it contains a periscope (Camera Obscura) that projects a live, 360-degree view of the city onto a concave surface, offering a unique, spyglass perspective of Lisbon life.
The Archaeological Site and Museum
Within the castle grounds lies an extensive archaeological site (Nucleo Museologico). Excavations have revealed layers of history like a lasagna of civilizations: remains of the Moorish residential quarter (11th century) and the foundations of the Iron Age settlement (7th century BC). These ruins provide a fascinating glimpse into the domestic lives of the people who lived here before the Christian conquest. The on-site museum displays objects found during these excavations, including Islamic pottery, iron tools, and coins, helping to contextualize the timeline of the hill.
The Traitors' Gate
Another interesting feature is the obscure "Traitors' Gate" (Porta da Traição). Located on the northern wall, this small postern gate was used for secret messengers or escapes. Its sinister name suggests it might have been used by deserters or traitors to let enemies in, though in practice, such gates were a standard feature of medieval fortifications for sorties.
Legends: The Heroism of Martim Moniz
The most enduring legend of Castelo de São Jorge is the tale of Martim Moniz. During the siege of 1147, the Christian forces were struggling to breach the impregnable Moorish walls. Legend has it that Martim Moniz, a knight of noble birth, noticed a small door in the castle walls opening to let some defenders back in. Realizing the opportunity, he charged towards the gate. Alone and under heavy fire, he threw his body into the closing gap, wedging himself between the door and the frame. He was crushed to death, but his sacrifice prevented the door from closing fully, allowing his fellow soldiers to force it open and capture the castle. To this day, the gate is known as the 'Porta de Martim Moniz', a tribute to the man who gave his life for the conquest of Lisbon.
Visitor Information
Getting There
The castle is located in the Alfama district. The climb to the top is steep. The most scenic way to arrive is by taking the famous Tram 28, which winds through the narrow streets of the old town. Get off at the 'Miradouro de Santa Luzia' stop and walk up the rest of the way. Alternatively, the specialized 'Castelo' bus (737) brings visitors closer to the entrance.
The Experience
The castle is one of the most popular sites in Portugal, so lines can be long. It is open seven days a week, typically from 9:00 AM to 9:00 PM in summer (March-October) and until 6:00 PM in winter. The best time to visit is late afternoon to catch the sunset over the Tagus River, turning the city golden. Inside the walls, you will find gardens filled with native species like cork oaks and olive trees, and a permanent population of peacocks that are surprisingly tame. There is also a restaurant and a café within the walls, allowing you to sip wine while soaking in the history. The castle grounds also host a small neighborhood, the Bairro do Castelo, where locals still live within the ancient walls, adding a living element to the monument.