The Crown Jewel of Spanish Mudejar Architecture
Castillo de Coca, or the Castle of Coca, stands as a solitary, magnificent sentinel in the province of Segovia, central Spain. Unlike the rugged, stone-hewn fortresses that dot much of the European landscape, Coca is a masterpiece of brick. It is widely regarded as the supreme example of Spanish Mudejar military architecture—a style that blends Gothic structural principles with the intricate, geometric decorative traditions of the Islamic Moors. The castle’s rose-colored brickwork, rising from a deep, wide moat, creates an impression of elegance that belies its formidable defensive capabilities. It is a structure that was built as much to impress as to protect, serving as a luxurious residence for the powerful House of Fonseca.
Located approximately 50 kilometers from the historic city of Segovia and within easy reach of Madrid, Castillo de Coca attracts visitors not just for its history, but for its aesthetic uniqueness. While many castles rely on the sheer imposition of grey granite to project power, Coca uses pattern, texture, and the warmth of baked clay to achieve a similar, yet far more artistic, effect.
History: The Ambition of the Fonsecas
The construction of Castillo de Coca began in the late 15th century, a turbulent and transformative period in Spanish history. In 1453, the royal permission to build the fortress was granted by King John II of Castile to Alonso de Fonseca, the Archbishop of Seville. The Fonseca family was one of the most influential and wealthy lineages in Castile, and they desired a stronghold that reflected their status. However, the bulk of the construction was carried out under his nephew, also named Alonso de Fonseca, and continued by his successors.
The castle was completed in 1493. This was the era of the Reconquista's final years and the beginning of the Spanish Golden Age. The choice of the Mudejar style is significant. Even as the Christian monarchs were consolidating power and driving the last Muslim rulers from Granada, the artistic influence of Al-Andalus remained profound. Christian rulers frequently employed Moorish craftsmen (Mudejars) who lived in Christian territory, valuing their supreme skills in bricklaying and plasterwork.
For centuries, the castle served as a palatial residence. It was a venue for lavish feasts and a symbol of the Fonseca family's dominance in the region. However, its golden age could not last forever. In the early 17th century, the castle passed by marriage to the House of Alba. Over time, as military needs changed and the focus of the nobility shifted to the Royal Court in Madrid, the castle was visited less frequently.
The 19th century brought devastation. During the Peninsular War, French troops under Napoleon occupied the castle. When they retreated, they left it in a state of disrepair. Worse was to come; in 1828, a local administrator for the House of Alba ruthlessly sold off the castle’s interior furnishings, marble columns, and artistic treasures. The structure was left as a hollow shell, its courtyard ruined. It was not until the 20th century, when it was declared a National Monument in 1928, that serious restoration efforts began. In 1954, the House of Alba ceded the castle to the Ministry of Agriculture to be used as a forestry school, a function it still holds in part today, which helped fund its meticulous restoration.
Architecture: A Symphony in Brick
The architecture of Castillo de Coca is its most defining feature. In a region where stone was abundant, the decision to build almost entirely in brick was a deliberate stylistic choice, allowing for a level of detail impossible with granite. The bricks are used not just for structure but for decoration, arranged in varying patterns to create friezes, arches, and geometric motifs.
The Defensive System
Despite its ornamental appearance, Coca was a cutting-edge military machine for its time. It utilizes a concentric design, meaning it has two rings of walls. The outer wall acts as a barrier to the inner, higher wall, allowing defenders to fire over their comrades' heads.
One of the most striking features is the massive dry moat. It is incredibly deep and wide, not designed to be filled with water, but to prevent mining (tunneling) and to make scaling the walls a suicidal endeavor. The steep escarpments leading down to the moat made it nearly impossible for siege engines to approach the walls.
The Towers and Keep
The castle is square in plan, with polygonal towers at each corner. The most massive of these is the Keep (Torre del Homenaje). This was the last refuge of the lords and the heart of the castle's administration. The towers are crowned with machicolations—openings through which defenders could drop stones or boiling liquids—but here, even these functional elements are treated with decorative flair.
Mudejar Decoration
The exterior walls are adorned with horizontal bands of brickwork in differing shades. The battlements are not the standard crenellations but are shaped like fleurs-de-lis, adding a unique silhouette. Inside, although much was lost, the restored rooms (like the Sala de Armas and the Chapel) show traces of the original Mudejar plasterwork (yesería) and azulejos (tiles), featuring intricate geometric stars and floral patterns typical of Islamic art.
Legends and Stories
Like any ancient fortress, Castillo de Coca has its share of stories. One local legend speaks of a tragic romance connected to the Fonseca family. It is said that a young noblewoman of the family fell in love with a soldier from a rival faction. They would meet secretly in the shadows of the moat. When their affair was discovered, the soldier was killed, and the noblewoman, heartbroken, is said to have withered away in the high tower. Some visitors claim to feel a melancholic presence in the Keep, attributing it to her restless spirit.
Another story relates to the sheer cost of the castle. It was rumored that the mortar used in the construction was mixed with wine instead of water, a hyperbolic folk tale meant to illustrate the immense wealth and extravagance of the Archbishop. While historically inaccurate, it underscores the local perception of the Fonsecas as possessing boundless resources.
Visitor Information
Getting There
Castillo de Coca is located in the town of Coca, Segovia. It is about a 1 hour and 30-minute drive north-northwest from Madrid and roughly 50 minutes from the city of Segovia. For those using public transport, buses run from Segovia’s main bus station to Coca, though schedules can be infrequent, so driving is recommended.
Opening Hours and Tickets
The castle is open to the public year-round, though hours vary by season. Typically, it is open in the mornings (10:30 AM – 1:00 PM) and afternoons (4:30 PM – 7:00 PM), but it is often closed during lunch hours (siesta time). It is advisable to check the official website or call ahead before visiting, especially on public holidays.
The Tour
Visits are often guided (available in Spanish, with some English information usually provided). The tour takes you through the Chapel, the Weapons Room, and the Dungeon. A highlight is climbing the spiral staircase to the top of the Keep, which offers panoramic views of the surrounding pine forests and the expansive Castilian plains. The forestry school occupies parts of the enclosure, so access to some administrative areas is restricted, but the main historical sections are fully accessible.
Best Time to Visit
Spring and Autumn offer the most pleasant weather for exploring the castle and its exterior grounds. The golden light of the late afternoon sun hitting the pink brick walls makes for spectacular photography. Summer in this region can be quite hot, so morning visits are preferable during July and August.