The Sentinel of Sintra
High above the fairytale town of Sintra, dominating the landscape like a jagged granite crown, stands the Castle of the Moors (Castelo dos Mouros). With its ancient stone walls snaking across the mountain ridges and its moss-covered towers piercing the mist, it is a site of haunting beauty. Unlike its colorful neighbor, the Pena Palace, the Moorish Castle is a stark, rugged fortification that speaks of a time when the Iberian Peninsula was a battleground between empires.
Built by the North African Moors in the 8th and 9th centuries, it is one of the most significant Islamic military structures in Portugal. It offers not only a lesson in medieval history but also some of the most spectacular panoramic views in the entire country, stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to the capital city of Lisbon.
A History of Conquest
The castle's history is inextricably linked to the 'Reconquista,' the centuries-long struggle between Christian and Muslim forces for control of the peninsula.
The Moorish Stronghold (8th – 12th Century)
Following the Umayyad conquest of Hispania in 711 AD, the region of Sintra became part of Al-Andalus. The Moors recognized the strategic value of the Sintra Mountains (Serra de Sintra) as a natural lookout point. They built two rings of walls along the irregular cliffs to protect the agricultural population of the fertile lands below. The castle was an administrative center and a refuge in times of war. Archaeological excavations have revealed silos for storing grain and the foundations of homes from the Islamic period, showing that a thriving community lived within these walls.
The Christian Takeover (1147)
Changing hands several times during the 11th century, the castle's fate was finally sealed in 1147. After Afonso Henriques, the first King of Portugal, conquered Lisbon with the help of Crusaders on their way to the Holy Land, the garrison at Sintra surrendered voluntarily. They handed the fortress over to the Christian forces, likely to avoid a massacre. Afonso Henriques entrusted the security of the castle to 30 crusaders and established the Chapel of São Pedro inside the walls.
For the next few centuries, the castle remained vital for the defense of Lisbon. However, as the Reconquista moved south and the threat of invasion diminished, the military importance of Sintra faded. By the 15th century, the population had moved down to the village (now the town center), and the castle was abandoned. Nature reclaimed the fortress; lightning strikes and the devastating earthquake of 1755 reduced much of it to rubble.
The Romantic Restoration
The castle as we see it today is partly a ruin and partly a 19th-century reconstruction. In 1838, King Ferdinand II (a German prince who married Queen Maria II) fell in love with Sintra. He acquired the ruins of the Moorish Castle along with the neighboring monastery that would become the Pena Palace.
Driven by the Romantic movement's passion for the Middle Ages and the picturesque, Ferdinand ordered the consolidation of the walls and towers. He didn't want to rebuild it as a functioning fortress but to preserve it as a 'medieval ruin' that would serve as a dramatic backdrop to his beautiful Pena Park. He afforested the surrounding slopes with exotic trees, transforming the harsh defensive landscape into a lush, mystical forest.
Exploring the Castle
A visit to the Castle of the Moors involves walking the ramparts—a thrilling, vertigo-inducing experience reminiscent of the Great Wall of China.
The Walls and Towers
The castle consists of a double line of military walls that follow the natural contours of the granite terrain. Visitors can walk almost the entire perimeter (approx. 450 meters).
- The Royal Tower (Torre Real): This tower, climbed via a steep stone staircase (500 steps!), takes its name from a tradition that King Ferdinand II liked to paint from this vantage point. It is the highest point of the castle and offers the best view of the Pena Palace glowing yellow and red on the neighboring peak.
- The Castle Keep: The strongest tower, located at the most vulnerable point of the defense.
- The Door of Betrayal: A small, hidden postern gate in the outer wall that allowed defenders to slip in and out of the castle unnoticed during a siege—or allowed traitors to let the enemy in.
The Cistern
One of the most impressive surviving Moorish features is the massive cistern. Carved out of the solid rock and covered with a vaulted roof, it was designed to capture and store rainwater, ensuring the garrison could survive a long siege. Even today, over 1,000 years later, it remains filled with crystal-clear water. Legend says a Moorish king is buried beneath it.
The Chapel of São Pedro
Located near the entrance, this small Romanesque church was built by Afonso Henriques after the conquest. It fell into ruin but has been partially restored. It is fascinating for the medieval frescoes that were discovered under layers of plaster, and for the archaeological graves found around it, which show both Christian and Islamic burial practices.
The Views
The views from the castle are arguably the best in the region. To the west, you can see the vast expanse of the Atlantic Ocean and the town of Cascais. To the north, the historic palace of Mafra breaks the horizon. To the east, you can see the Tagus River and the 25 de Abril Bridge in Lisbon. And looking upwards, you have the most dramatic angle of the Pena Palace.
Visitor Information
The Castle of the Moors is located within the Sintra Cultural Landscape, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
- Getting There: Private cars are banned from the town center and castle road. You must take the 434 tourist bus from Sintra train station (a looped route) or hike up the Villa Sassetti trail (strenuous, 45-60 mins).
- Tickets: It is recommended to buy a combined ticket for the Castle of the Moors and Pena Park. Book online to skip the lines.
- Weather Warning: Sintra has its own microclimate. It can be sunny in Lisbon but foggy and cold at the castle. The mist adds to the atmosphere but obscures the views. Check the webcam or weather forecast before heading up.
- Accessibility: This is a medieval fortress on a mountain. The paths are uneven, and there are many stairs. It is unfortunately not wheelchair accessible. Visitors with limited mobility can access the lower interpretive center but cannot reach the ramparts.
- Clothing: Wear sturdy walking shoes with good grip (the stones can be slippery) and bring a windbreaker. It is almost always windy on the towers.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Is it worth going if I'm visiting Pena Palace?
- Absolutely. The two offer completely different experiences. Pena is an ornate, interior-focused palace; the Moorish Castle is an exterior, rugged adventure. The views of Pena *from* the Moorish Castle are iconic.
- How long does it take?
- Allow about 1 to 1.5 hours to walk the walls and explore the archaeological site.
- Are there toilets/food?
- There are toilets and a small cafeteria near the entrance gate, but nothing once you are inside the castle walls.