Château d'Amboise sits high on a promontory overlooking the Loire River, a strategic position that has been fortified since the Iron Age. However, it is best known as a royal residence of the French kings during the Renaissance and, perhaps most famously, as the final resting place of Leonardo da Vinci. The château represents a pivotal moment in architecture, where the defensive medieval fortress began to transition into the elegant palace style that defines the Loire Valley.
The Royal Residence
While the site is ancient, the château's golden age began with Charles VIII, who was born here. After his military campaigns in Italy, he returned to France in 1495 dazzled by the art and architecture he had seen. He brought back Italian artisans, architects, and gardeners to transform Amboise into a palace. This marked the arrival of the Renaissance in France.
His successors, Louis XII and Francis I (François I), continued to develop the château. Francis I, in particular, spent much of his childhood here. When he became king, his court at Amboise was brilliant and vibrant, a center of culture and arts that rivaled anything in Italy.
Leonardo da Vinci
In 1516, Francis I invited Leonardo da Vinci to France, naming him "The King's First Painter, Architect, and Engineer". The King gave Leonardo the manor house of Clos Lucé, located just 500 meters from the château, and provided him with a generous pension.
Legend says that there was a secret underground tunnel connecting the château to Clos Lucé, allowing the King to visit the aging master privately. Leonardo spent the last three years of his life here, finalizing paintings like Saint John the Baptist and possibly working on the Mona Lisa. He died in Amboise in 1519. Today, he is buried in the Chapel of Saint-Hubert, a jewel of Flamboyant Gothic architecture perched on the château's ramparts. The chapel is famous for its intricate stone carvings, particularly the lintel above the door depicting the legend of St Hubert.
The Amboise Conspiracy
Not all the history here is about art. In 1560, the château was the setting for a bloody prelude to the Wars of Religion. A group of Huguenots (French Protestants) plotted to kidnap the young King Francis II to remove him from the influence of the powerful Catholic Guise family. The plot, known as the Amboise Conspiracy, was discovered and brutally crushed. The conspirators were executed in the courtyard and hung from the château's balcony as a grim warning. For a time, the court abandoned Amboise, tainted by the memory of the slaughter.
Architecture and The Ramparts
Only a fraction of the original vast complex remains today, but what stands is magnificent.
- The Minimes Tower and Heurtault Tower: These massive towers are unique because they contain wide spiral ramps rather than stairs. These ramps allowed horses and carriages to ascend from the town level up to the château terraces effortlessly. They are masterpieces of engineering.
- The Logis du Roi: The royal apartments offer a tour through the styles of the Valois dynasty. Visitors can see the guard room with its vaulted gothic ceiling and the noble council chamber with its fireplaces and monograms of the kings.
- The Balcony: The balcony overlooking the Loire offers one of the best views in the valley. It is famously the spot where the conspirators were hanged, but today it is a peaceful vantage point to watch the river flow by.
The Gardens
The gardens at Amboise are distinctively 'suspended' high above the town. They were among the first gardens in France to be designed in the Italian style by the monk Pacello da Mercogliano.
- The Naples Terrace: This area features clipped yew balls and geometric patterns, reflecting the Italian influence Charles VIII brought back from Naples.
- The Oriental Garden: A newer addition, this garden commemorates the Emir Abd el-Kader and his entourage, who were held prisoner in the château in the 19th century. It features rosemary, jasmine, and other Mediterranean plants, and its layout is oriented towards Mecca, honoring those who died during their captivity.
Visiting Today
Amboise is a charming town, and the château is its crown jewel. A visit here is often combined with a trip to Clos Lucé to see Leonardo's inventions.
- Histopad: The château offers a 'Histopad' (tablet) tour, which uses augmented reality to show how the rooms would have looked in the 16th century, complete with furniture and courtiers. This is excellent for visualizing the lost grandeur of the royal court.
- Night Shows: In the summer, the "Prophecy of Amboise" is a spectacular sound and light show involving hundreds of local actors that brings the history of the court to life.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Where is Leonardo da Vinci's grave?
- He is buried in the Chapel of Saint-Hubert within the château grounds. Note that the chapel is sometimes closed for restoration, so check ahead if this is your main reason for visiting.
- Is there parking?
- There is limited parking right next to the château. It is often better to park in the town of Amboise (near the river) and walk up the ramp or steps.
- Is it accessible?
- The gardens and ground floor are accessible, but due to the historic nature of the building, there are many steps to access the upper floors and the chapel. The famous horse ramps provide step-free access to the terrace level for those who can manage the incline.