The Garden of France
While the Loire Valley is famous for its châteaux, Villandry is famous for its ground. Château de Villandry is the last of the great Renaissance châteaux built on the banks of the Loire. Although the building itself is an elegant example of 16th-century architecture, it is the gardens that steal the show. They are widely considered the most beautiful formal gardens in the world, a masterpiece of geometry, color, and symbolism. Spanning 9 hectares across three levels of terraces, they are a living painting that changes with the seasons.
To visit Villandry is to step into a world of harmony. The precise clipping of the 1,260 linden trees, the vibrant patterns of the vegetables, and the soothing sound of the fountains create an atmosphere of total tranquility. It is the crowning jewel of the French gardening tradition, attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors who come to admire the artistry of nature tamed by man.
History: A Spaniard's Dream
The original fortress was the site of a historic meeting: the "Peace of Colombiers" was signed here in 1189 between King Henry II of England and King Philip Augustus of France. However, the current château was built in 1536 by Jean Le Breton, Finance Minister to King Francis I. He had served as ambassador to Rome and was inspired by the Italian Renaissance gardens he saw there.
Over the centuries, the gardens were altered. In the 19th century, they were destroyed and replaced by a fashionable English-style park. The château itself fell into disrepair. The savior of Villandry arrived in 1906. Joachim Carvallo, a Spanish doctor and researcher (the great-grandfather of the current owner), bought the estate. He was horrified by the "bastardized" English park. He spent his life and fortune researching 16th-century gardening manuals (like "Les Plus Excellents Bastiments de France" by Androuet du Cerceau) to painstakingly recreate the Renaissance gardens. He opened the estate to the public in 1920, ensuring its preservation.
Architecture: The Last Renaissance Jewel
Jean Le Breton razed the old fortress to build his new home, leaving only the massive medieval Keep (Donjon) as a reminder of the past. The new château is U-shaped, opening towards the valley. It features large mullioned windows, pilasters, and high slate roofs with dormers. The style is simpler and more purely French than the earlier, Italian-influenced Loire châteaux. The interiors have been recently restored and furnished by the Carvallo family, featuring a beautiful 18th-century dining room and a collection of Spanish paintings, including a famous gilded ceiling from Toledo.
The Gardens: A Tapestry of Green
The gardens are divided into distinct sections, each with its own theme. They are best viewed from the belvedere or the château tower to appreciate the geometric patterns.
The Ornamental Garden (The Love Gardens)
Located on the first terrace, this is the most famous part. Four squares of boxwood hedges are clipped into symbolic shapes representing different types of love:
- Tender Love: Hearts separated by small flames.
- Passionate Love: Broken hearts, arranged in a chaotic pattern.
- Fickle Love: Four fans (symbolizing lightness) and horns (symbolizing betrayal).
- Tragic Love: Blades of daggers and swords used in duels.
The Kitchen Garden (Le Potager)
On the lowest terrace lies the Renaissance Kitchen Garden. It consists of nine squares of equal size, planted with vegetables and flowers in alternating geometric patterns. It is a visual feast. The colors of the vegetables—blue leeks, red cabbages, jade lettuce—are contrasted with apple and pear trees trained into espaliers. It produces 40 tons of organic vegetables a year, but not a single weed is allowed to stay.
The Water Garden and Sun Garden
Higher up is the Water Garden, centered around a large mirror-like pond in the shape of a Louis XV mirror. It is a place of calm and reflection. The newest addition (2008) is the Sun Garden, featuring a lime tree avenue and a children's maze (Labyrinth) planted with hornbeam. The Herb Garden contains aromatic and medicinal plants used in the Middle Ages.
Visitor Information
Getting There
Villandry is located about 15 km west of Tours. It is easily accessible by car (A85 motorway) or by bike (it is on the "Loire à Vélo" cycle route). In summer, a shuttle bus ("Fil Vert") runs from Tours. There are ample parking facilities.
Best Time to Visit
The gardens are open every day of the year. The best time to visit depends on what you want to see. Spring (April-May) offers tulips and fresh greens. Summer (July-August) sees the flowers in full bloom. Autumn (September-October) brings the vibrant colors of the pumpkins and squashes in the kitchen garden. Winter has its own stark beauty, highlighting the geometry of the boxwood. The "Nights of a Thousand Lights" in summer, where the gardens are lit by thousands of candles, is a magical event.
Practicalities
Visitors can choose to visit just the gardens or the château and gardens combined. Allow at least 2 hours. Photography is best from the Belvedere (viewing platform) in the woods above the garden, which offers the famous overhead shot of the Love Gardens. There is a tea room and a restaurant near the entrance, serving dishes made with vegetables from the garden.