The Versailles of the North
Reflecting elegantly in the waters of the Slotssøen (Castle Lake), Frederiksborg Castle (Frederiksborg Slot) is a building of breathtaking ambition. Located in Hillerød, north of Copenhagen, it is the largest Renaissance castle in Scandinavia. With its copper-covered spires, red brick walls, and sandstone decorations, it rises from three islands like a fairy palace. But Frederiksborg is not just a royal residence; since 1878, it has housed the Museum of National History, making it the guardian of Denmark's collective memory. A visit here is a journey through 500 years of Danish kings, wars, art, and culture.
Christian IV: The Builder King
While the first castle on this site was built by King Frederick II (hence the name *Frederik's* Borg) in 1560, the current masterpiece is entirely the work of his son, Christian IV. Known as the 'Builder King,' Christian IV was a man of enormous energy and vision who wanted to make Denmark a major European power. Between 1600 and 1620, he demolished most of his father's castle and built a new, flamboyant Renaissance palace designed to rival any in Europe. He lived here for many years, and it was the setting for his splendid court festivities.
The Fire and the Brewer
The castle stood for over two centuries as a symbol of royal power. But on the night of December 16, 1859, tragedy struck. The King (Frederick VII) requested a fire to be lit in a chimney that was under repair. The result was catastrophic. A massive fire engulfed the main building, destroying the roof and gutting the interiors. The Great Hall and most of the royal collections were lost.
The castle might have remained a ruin if not for J.C. Jacobsen, the founder of the Carlsberg brewery. A fervent patriot, Jacobsen believed the castle was essential to Danish national identity. He offered to finance the rebuilding, on the condition that it become a museum of national history rather than a royal residence. The King agreed. The castle was meticulously restored, and the museum opened in 1878, modeled on the Château de Versailles in France.
Inside the Museum of National History
Today, the museum navigates visitors through Denmark's history chronologically, room by room.
The Chapel (Slotskirken)
Miraculously, the Castle Chapel was largely spared by the 1859 fire. It is magnificent. The interior is a riot of Renaissance decoration, with intarsia woodwork, gilded stucco, and silver adornments. It served as the coronation church for Danish absolute monarchs from 1660 to 1840. Today, it is famous for its collection of coats of arms of the knights of the Order of the Elephant and the Order of the Dannebrog lining the walls.
The chapel's greatest treasure is the Compenius Organ, built in 1610 by Esaias Compenius. It is made almost entirely of wood (pipes and all) and adorned with ivory and ebony. It is still in perfect working order and is played every Thursday, producing a unique authentic Renaissance sound.
The Great Hall (Riddersalen)
Reconstructed after the fire to its original glory, the Great Hall lies above the chapel. It is a vast space used for banquets and balls. The highlight is the elaborately carved wooden ceiling, featuring pendants and reliefs. The walls are hung with tapestries depicting scenes from the Kalmar War and portraits of the Danish royal family.
The Audience Chamber
Another survivor of the fire, the Audience Chamber (1680s) is a masterpiece of the Baroque style. It features a central dome painted with allegorical scenes and an ingenious 'elevator' (a table that could be raised from the kitchen below) so the King could dine without the intrusion of servants.
The Portrait Collection
The museum holds the country's largest collection of portraits. From austere paintings of medieval kings to modern, colorful interpretations of Queen Margrethe II (some by Andy Warhol!), the collection traces the changing face of power and society in Denmark.
The Orders of Chivalry
Frederiksborg is the spiritual home of the Danish Royal Orders of Chivalry: the Order of the Elephant and the Order of the Dannebrog. The Order of the Elephant is the highest honor in Denmark, usually only bestowed upon royals and heads of state. The chapel walls are lined with hundreds of shields bearing the coats of arms of the knights. Visitors can spot the shields of famous figures such as Nelson Mandela, Winston Churchill, Dwight D. Eisenhower, and Charles de Gaulle. It is a fascinating 'who's who' of world history, all united under the Danish cross.
The Gardens: Baroque vs. Romantic
The castle experience extends outdoors to two distinct gardens that represent opposing philosophies.
The Baroque Garden
To the north of the castle lies the strict, symmetrical Baroque Garden. Recreated in 1996 based on J.C. Krieger's 1725 designs, it features four cascades where water tumbles down in steps, precisely clipped box hedges forming royal monograms, and straight avenues of lime trees. It is a celebration of Man's control over Nature. The monograms visible in the boxwood are those of King Frederik IV (who commissioned the garden), Queen Margrethe II (who inaugurated the restoration), and Prince Consort Henrik.
The English Landscape Garden
To the east lies the Romantic Garden. Developed in the 19th century, it is winding, wild, and naturalistic. It features immense trees, small lakes, and the charming Bath House Castle (Badstueslot), a mini-castle used by the kings for hunting lunches and spa retreats. This garden represents the ideal of Nature being allowed to flourish, a stark contrast to the rigid lines of the Baroque section.
Visitor Information
Frederiksborg Castle is open daily throughout the year.
- Getting There: Take the S-train (Line A) from Copenhagen to Hillerød (approx. 40 mins). From the station, you can take a bus, walk through the town (15 mins), or take the quaint little ferry boat which sails across the Castle Lake directly to the entrance. The boat ride offers the most photogenic approach.
- Tickets: Admission includes the museum, chapel, and access to special exhibitions. The gardens are free to enter and open until sunset.
- Audio Guide: A free audio guide is available (bring your smartphone and headphones) via a QR code at the entrance, offering excellent commentary on the key rooms and paintings.
- For Kids: The museum offers a 'History Hunt' and dressing-up activities in the children's section during school holidays.
- Dining: 'Spisestedet Leonora' is a restaurant located by the lake, offering traditional Danish 'smørrebrød' (open sandwiches) with a view.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Is this the Hamlet castle?
- No, that is Kronborg Castle in Helsingør. Frederiksborg is the *other* great Danish castle, arguably more beautiful, but less famous in literature.
- Can you get married there?
- Yes, the Castle Chapel is a functioning parish church, and weddings are held there.
- Is it wheelchair accessible?
- Yes, remarkably for an old castle, there are lifts to all floors of the museum and access to the chapel.