The Brick Giant of the North
On the shores of Lake Vanajavesi, halfway between Helsinki and Tampere, stands Häme Castle (Hämeen linna). It is a rarity in Finland: a castle built almost entirely of red brick. Most Finnish fortifications were built of stone or wood, but Häme's distinctive red walls give it a warmth and imposing presence that is unique in the Nordic landscape. Along with Olavinlinna and Turku Castle, it forms the trinity of Finland's great medieval strongholds.
For over 700 years, this castle has been the center of power in the Tavastia (Häme) region. It has seen Swedish crusaders, Russian invaders, and Finnish prisoners. Today, stripped of its later additions and restored to its medieval appearance, it stands as a monument to the turbulent history of the Swedish-Russian borderlands.
A Bastion of the Swedish Crusade
The origins of Häme Castle are shrouded in the mists of the "Second Swedish Crusade" in the mid-13th century. It is believed to have been founded by Earl Birger (Birger Jarl) around 1260 to consolidate Swedish control over the pagan Tavastians. Originally, it was a fortified camp on an island, but over the decades, it grew into a formidable stone keep.
In the Middle Ages, the castle was the administrative center of the province. It was home to the castle commandant, his garrison, and the local court. The Golden Age of the castle was likely under the commandant Olof Tott in the late 15th century. It was during this time that the massive brick upper stories were added, reflecting the architectural styles of the Teutonic Order in the southern Baltic. The intricate brick patterns and the sheer size of the main keep date from this period of prosperity and power.
From Fortress to Granary to Prison
As the borders of the Swedish Empire shifted further east, Häme Castle lost its military significance. By the 18th century, it had fallen into disrepair. However, the pragmatic Swedes (and later Russians) found new uses for the sturdy walls. In the late 18th century, the round Gun Tower was added, but the main castle was converted into a granary (crown bakery) to supply the army.
But its grimmest chapter began in 1837, when the castle was turned into a prison. For over a century, until 1953, Häme Castle was a place of confinement. It housed Finland's only women's prison for a time. The medieval halls were subdivided into small cells, and the beautiful brickwork was covered in plaster and yellow paint. It was a dark, crowded, and miserable place, a far cry from the noble court of Olof Tott.
The Great Restoration
When the prison was finally closed in 1953, a massive restoration project began. It took nearly 35 years to complete. The goal was to strip away the prison-era modifications and reveal the medieval heart of the castle. The plaster was removed, the cell walls were torn down, and the original brickwork was exposed.
The result is fascinating because the restoration did not try to make the castle look "new." Instead, it preserved the scars of history. In some rooms, you can see the rough stone of the medieval period, the elegant brick of the Renaissance, and the marks left by the prison structures. It is a building that wears its history openly.
A Tour of the Castle
Visiting Häme Castle is a journey through these layers of time.
The King's Hall and Queen's Chamber
The most impressive rooms are located on the main floor. The King's Hall (Kuninkaansali) was the medieval banqueting hall. It has been restored to its 15th-century appearance, with a high wooden ceiling and Gothic brick vaults. It is now often used for high-profile events and dinners. Next to it is the Queen's Chamber, a more intimate space that likely served as the private living quarters of the commandant's family.
The Bakery
One of the most unique features is the massive 18th-century bakery in the basement. It was designed to bake bread for the entire garrison. The enormous ovens are still there, a reminder of the logistical challenge of feeding an army.
The Well
In the inner courtyard, you can see the castle well. Access to fresh water was critical for surviving a siege. The well at Häme is incredibly deep, dug by hand through the bedrock.
The Prison Museum
Just outside the main castle walls stands a yellow building that looks remarkably like a prison—because it is one. This is the Prison Museum (Vankilamuseo), housed in the former county prison. It is one of the few museums in the world located in a genuine 19th-century cell block. Visitors can step into the cramped cells, see the graffiti left by prisoners, and learn about the harsh reality of the penal system in Finland. It provides a sobering counterpoint to the romantic medievalism of the castle.
Legends of the Castle
A castle this old inevitably gathers ghosts. The most famous legend is that of the "Grey Lady." She is said to be the spirit of a young woman who fell in love with a castle guard. The commandant, disapproving of the affair, had the guard sent away to war and the girl locked in a tower. She died of a broken heart and now wanders the ramparts, waiting for her lover's return.
Another story involves the "Devil's Chamber." During the restoration, workers found a small, windowless room with strange markings on the walls. It is rumored to have been a place where black magic was practiced, or perhaps a particularly cruel solitary confinement cell. Lights are said to flicker in that part of the castle, and sudden drops in temperature are common.
Planning Your Visit
Hämeenlinna is easily accessible by train from Helsinki (about 1 hour) or Tampere. The castle is a 15-minute walk from the railway station, along a scenic lakeside path.
- The Park: The castle is surrounded by a beautiful park that runs along the lake. It is a popular spot for locals to jog, picnic, or just watch the boats go by.
- Museo Militaria: Located in the old artillery barracks next to the castle, this museum covers the military history of Finland. A combined ticket often includes the castle, the prison museum, and the military museum.
- Summer Events: In August, the castle grounds host a large Medieval Festival (Hämeen Keskiaikamarkkinat). The area is filled with knights in armor, jousting tournaments, craft markets, and medieval music. It is the best time to see the castle come alive.
Häme Castle is a survivor. It has stood firm against arrows, cannonballs, and the slow decay of time. Today, its red brick walls glow in the sunset, a warm and enduring symbol of the Tavastian region.