The Real Downton Abbey
For millions of viewers around the world, the soaring pinnacles and golden sandstone of Highclere Castle are instantly recognizable as 'Downton Abbey', the home of the fictional Crawley family. But the true story of this Jacobethan masterpiece is every bit as dramatic as the TV script. Highclere is the ancestral seat of the Earls of Carnarvon, and it has witnessed centuries of political power, royal visits, and even archaeological triumphs that shook the world.
Set amidst 5,000 acres of rolling Hampshire countryside, the castle is a testament to the high Victorian era. It was designed in 1842 by Sir Charles Barry, the superstar architect of his day who was also responsible for rebuilding the Houses of Parliament in London. The resemblance is no accident; Highclere radiates the same confident, imperial grandeur.
The Carnarvon Legacy
The Herbert family (the Earls of Carnarvon) has owned the estate since 1679. Before the current 'castle' was built, a simpler Georgian manor stood on the site. The immense transformation into a palace was the vision of the 3rd Earl. He wanted a home that would impress the world and serve as a center for political life. He certainly succeeded; Benjamin Disraeli famously exclaimed, 'How scenical! How scenical!' upon seeing it.
The 5th Earl and Tutankhamun
Perhaps the most famous resident was the 5th Earl of Carnarvon, George Herbert. A dashing aristocrat with a passion for fast cars and ancient history, he is best known for funding the archaeologist Howard Carter. For years, they searched the Valley of the Kings in Egypt with little success. Then, in November 1922, they made the discovery of the century: the intact Tomb of Tutankhamun.
The castle today celebrates this incredible connection. The cellars, which once housed the servants' quarters, have been transformed into an Egyptian Exhibition. It displays replicas of the tomb's treasures (the originals are in Cairo) alongside genuine artifacts brought back by the Earl before modern export bans were in place. The exhibit tells the thrilling story of the discovery and the 'Curse of the Pharaohs' that supposedly killed the Earl shortly after opening the tomb. In reality, he died of an infected mosquito bite giving him blood poisoning, which led to pneumonia. Legend has it that at the exact moment of his death in Cairo, the lights went out across the city and his favorite dog at Highclere howled and dropped dead.
Life at Highclere Today
Highclere is not a museum frozen in time; it is the family home of the current 8th Earl and Countess of Carnarvon. The Countess (Lady Carnarvon) is a prolific author and blogger who has keenly embraced the 'Downton' fame to secure the castle's financial future. Maintenance of such a colossus costs millions, and opening it to the public helps keep the roof from leaking.
During the Wars
Just like in the TV series, Highclere Castle was transformed into a hospital during the First World War. Lady Almina, the 5th Countess, opened the doors to wounded soldiers coming back from the trenches. She rolled up her sleeves and served as the matron. During the Second World War, the castle housed evacuee children from London, protecting them from the Blitz.
The State Rooms
Visitors can walk the same halls as Lord Grantham and Lady Mary.
- The Library: The heart of the house, containing over 5,650 books. It was used as the family gathering room in the series. It is cozy yet grand, with a hidden door disguised as a bookshelf leading to the Music Room.
- The Saloon: A soaring, atrium-like space with a vaulted ceiling and a gallery above. The walls are covered in embossed Spanish leather cordoba dating back to 1631. This is the room where the tenants' balls and grand receptions are held.
- The Dining Room: Dominated by a massive portrait of Charles I on horseback by Van Dyck. This is where the famous 'dinner table scenes' of Downton Abbey were filmed.
- The Bedrooms: Upstairs, visitors can see the Stanhope, Arundel, and Mercia bedrooms, which served as the bedrooms for the various Crawley daughters and guests.
The Capability Brown Landscape
The setting of Highclere is as important as the stone. The parkland was designed by the legendary 18th-century landscape architect Lancelot 'Capability' Brown. He moved hills and planted thousands of trees to create a 'natural' looking landscape that is actually carefully engineered. Among the most striking features are the majestic **Cedars of Lebanon**, grown from seeds brought back from the Middle East in the 18th century. These massive, ancient trees frame the castle perfectly and are a signature of the Highclere estate. His genius is best appreciated from 'Jackdaw's Castle,' a folly (decorative ruin) built specifically to provide a frame for viewing the main house across the lawns.
The gardens also feature the Monks' Garden (named after the bishops of Winchester who owned the land 800 years ago), the White Garden, and a Secret Garden with curved herbaceous borders that are a riot of color in the summer.
Visiting Highclere: A Challenge
Due to the global popularity of the TV show, visiting Highclere requires planning.
- Limited Opening: The castle is only open to the public for between 60 and 70 days a year, mainly during the Easter and Summer holidays.
- Tickets Sell Out: Tickets are released months in advance and often sell out within hours. It is essential to book via the official website as soon as dates are announced.
- Special Tours: The castle offers 'Winter Week' and 'Christmas' tours, which are more expensive but offer a magical experience with roaring fires and Christmas trees.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Did they really film inside?
- Yes. The 'upstairs' scenes (library, dining room, hall) were filmed inside the castle. The 'downstairs' kitchen and servant quarters scenes were filmed on a set at Ealing Studios in London, as the real kitchens at Highclere have been modernized.
- Can I have tea there?
- Yes, there is a tea room in the old Coach House offering scones and sandwiches. You can also buy a 'Champagne Afternoon Tea' picnic box to enjoy on the grass.
- Is the Earl there?
- Often, yes. The family lives in the castle (though usually in a smaller, private wing when the house is open). It is not uncommon to see Lady Carnarvon walking her dogs on the grounds.