Himeji Castle (Himeji-jo) is widely considered the most spectacular castle in Japan. Unlike many others that were destroyed by war, fire, or earthquakes, Himeji stands as one of the twelve original castles and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its brilliant white plaster walls and elegant, bird-like silhouette have earned it the nickname "Shirasagi-jo" (White Heron Castle).
History: The Survivor
The first fortification was built in 1333, but the magnificent complex we see today was completed in 1609 by Ikeda Terumasa. Miraculously, the castle has survived for over 400 years intact.
- The Meiji Dismantling: In the 1870s, many Japanese castles were demolished. Himeji was sold at auction for 23 yen (about $2,000 today) to a man who wanted to demolish it for scrap. Thankfully, the cost of demolition was too high, so he left it standing.
- World War II: During WWII, Himeji city was firebombed and burned to the ground. The castle stood alone amidst the ashes. A firebomb actually landed on the top floor of the main keep but failed to explode—a miracle attributed to the castle's guardian spirits.
- The Great Hanshin Earthquake: In 1995, the devastating earthquake that destroyed Kobe left Himeji Castle unscathed, proving the genius of its seismic engineering.
Architecture: Beauty and Defense
While Himeji looks beautiful, it is a deadly military machine designed to confuse and trap attackers.
The White Plaster
The castle's walls are covered in a white plaster made from lime, shell ash, hemp fiber, and seaweed. This was not just for beauty; the plaster is fire-resistant, protecting the wooden structure from fire arrows and muskets.
The Maze
The path to the main keep is a labyrinth. It winds in a spiral, with gates that turn back on themselves, dead ends, and steep slopes. This was designed to disorient attackers. Defending soldiers could fire down on confused enemies from the sama (loopholes) in the walls. There are 997 loopholes of various shapes (circle, triangle, square) for guns and arrows.
The Main Keep
The main keep (Tenshu) is 46 meters tall and appears to have five stories, but like Matsumoto, it has a hidden sixth floor and a basement. The massive wooden pillars that support the structure include a 26-meter-long cypress trunk that was carried down from the mountains.
The Story of Princess Sen (Senhime)
Himeji Castle is also the setting for a tragic historical romance involving Princess Sen (Senhime), the granddaughter of Tokugawa Ieyasu. After her first husband was forced to commit suicide during the siege of Osaka Castle, she was remarried to Honda Tadatoki, the lord of Himeji. For a brief period, she lived happily in the West Bailey (Nishi-no-Maru) of the castle.
However, tragedy struck again when her son died at the age of three, followed by her husband five years later. A grieving Senhime cut her hair and became a Buddhist nun. The Cosmetic Tower (Kessho-yagura) in the West Bailey is where she is said to have rested during her walks, and it contains lifelike figures depicting her daily life playing card games (kai-awase) with her ladies-in-waiting. Her story adds a layer of human sorrow to the military might of the fortress.
Legends and Ghost Stories
Himeji is rich in folklore.
- Okiku's Well: One of Japan's most famous ghost stories, Banchō Sarayashiki, is set here. Okiku was a servant falsely accused of losing one of ten precious plates. She was thrown into a well in the castle. Legend says her ghost rises at night, counting the plates: "One... two... three..." and shrieking when she realizes the tenth is missing. The well (Okiku-ido) can still be seen in the castle grounds.
- The Old Widow's Stone: When Toyotomi Hideyoshi was building the castle, he ran out of stones for the walls. An old, poor widow heard of his trouble and donated her hand millstone (ubagaishi). Inspired by her sacrifice, others donated stones, and the wall was completed. You can see the round millstone built into the dry stone wall.
The Nine Gardens of Koko-en
Located just across the moat from the main gate is the Koko-en Garden, a relatively modern addition (opened in 1992) constructed on the site of the former samurai residences. It consists of nine separate walled gardens, each designed in a different Edo-period style. These include:
- The Lord's Residence Garden: Featuring a pond with colorful carp and a waterfall.
- The Tea Ceremony Garden: Where visitors can enjoy traditional matcha tea and sweets in a rustic tea house.
- The Bamboo Garden: A serene space filled with 15 varieties of bamboo.
The gardens are often used as filming locations for historical dramas (Jidai-geki) because of their authentic atmosphere. Visiting Koko-en provides a peaceful counterpoint to the steep climbing required in the castle itself.
Visitor Tips
- Steep Stairs: Like all original Japanese castles, you must take off your shoes to enter the keep. The wooden floors are slippery (wear socks), and the stairs are incredibly steep.
- Cherry Blossom Season: Himeji is one of the top spots in Japan for cherry blossoms (sakura). In early April, the white castle floating above a sea of pink flowers is breathtaking, but be prepared for massive crowds.
- Himeji Castle App: Download the official AR (Augmented Reality) app. Pointing your phone at certain spots in the castle reveals CGI animations of what the castle looked like in the Edo period, including samurai guards and weapon racks.
- Combined Ticket: Always buy the combined ticket for the Castle and Koko-en Garden. It costs only slightly more than the castle-only ticket and is well worth it.
Frequently Asked Questions
- How do I get there?
- Himeji Station is a stop on the Sanyo Shinkansen (Bullet Train). It takes about 3 hours from Tokyo, 1 hour from Kyoto, and 30 minutes from Osaka. The castle is a straight 15-minute walk down the main street from the station.
- How long does it take?
- The castle complex is huge. Allow at least 2 hours for the castle itself and another hour for the Koko-en Garden.
- Is there an elevator?
- No. As an original 17th-century building and National Treasure, no elevators can be installed. It is not wheelchair accessible beyond the entrance gate.