The Seat of the Clan Campbell
Reflected in the dark waters of Loch Fyne and set against the rugged backdrop of the Scottish Highlands, Inveraray Castle is one of Scotland's most iconic buildings. For centuries, it has been the ancestral home of the Duke of Argyll, Chief of the Clan Campbell. With its greenish-blue conical turrets and solid square keep, it looks like a château transplanted from the Loire Valley to the West Coast of Scotland. But beneath its fairytale exterior lies a history of power, politics, and resilience.
Unlike many Scottish castles that began as defensive fortresses, Inveraray was built in the mid-18th century as a grand country palace, designed to project the wealth and taste of the Campbells. It remains a family home to this day, currently occupied by Torquhil Campbell, the 13th Duke of Argyll, and his family.
A Masterpiece of Gothic Revival
The castle we see today replaced an older 15th-century fortress. The 3rd Duke of Argyll, Archibald Campbell, wanted a modern residence befitting his status. In 1744, construction began based on a design by Vanbrugh (the architect of Blenheim Palace), but adapted by Roger Morris and William Adam.
It was a bold architectural statement. Inveraray was one of the earliest examples of Gothic Revival architecture in Britain. It combined the symmetry of the Palladian style with Gothic details like pointed arches, crenellations, and touched of the Baroque. The most distinct feature—the conical roofs on the corner towers—were actually added later, after a fire in 1877, giving the castle its unique silhouette.
The Moving of the Town
The Duke's ambition didn't stop at the castle. The original medieval burgh of Inveraray stood right next to the old castle, spoiling the Duke's view and privacy. So, he simply moved it. The entire town was demolished and rebuilt further down the loch shore in the tidy, whitewashed Georgian style that visitors see today. It was a ruthless display of feudal power, but it resulted in one of the most handsome planned towns in Scotland.
Inside the Castle
Walking through the doors of Inveraray is entering a treasury of Highland history. The interiors are Neoclassical, designed by Robert Mylne, offering a bright and elegant contrast to the Gothic exterior.
The Armoury Hall
The undoubted showstopper of the castle is the Armoury Hall. It boasts the highest ceiling in Scotland (21 meters), and its walls are decorated with a breathtaking display of over 1,300 weapons. These are not just for show; they are the actual arms issued to the Campbell clan to fight the Jacobites in the uprisings of 1715 and 1745.
The display includes Brown Bess muskets, Lochaber axes (a terrifying polearm capable of de-horsing a cavalryman), and Scottish broadswords. The geometric patterns they form on the walls are a work of art in themselves, turning instruments of war into decoration.
The State Dining Room
This room is a masterpiece of delicate French-inspired decoration. The walls and ceilings are adorned with elaborate plasterwork and painting by Giry and Guinand, featuring garlands and grisaille panels. It is here that the Dukes have entertained royalty and heads of state for centuries. The table is often laid with the family's exquisite silver and porcelain.
The Tapestry Drawing Room
As the name suggests, this room is defined by its wall hangings—a set of magnificent Beauvais tapestries from the 18th century. They depict 'Pastorale' scenes and retain their vibrant colors. The room also features fragile giltwood furniture and looks out over the castle gardens.
The Haunted Room
The MacArthur Room is said to be the most haunted part of the castle. Legend says a young Harper was murdered here in 1644 by the Montrose army. His ghost is said to play the harp, and visitors have reported hearing the faint strains of music. The bed in this room is an ornate Scottish piece, heavy with carving and history.
The Downton Abbey Connection
To a modern global audience, Inveraray Castle is instantly recognizable as 'Duneagle Castle' from the hit TV series Downton Abbey. It was the setting for the 2012 Christmas Special, where the Crawley family visited their cousins, the Flintshires.
The grandeur of the State Dining Room and the Armoury Hall provided the perfect backdrop for the drama of the aristocracy. The current Duke and Duchess were heavily involved in the filming, and visitors can now see photos and memorabilia from the production on display.
The Fire of 1975
The castle nearly didn't survive to the present day. On November 5, 1975, a devastating fire broke out. It destroyed the roof and the upper floors. The people of Inveraray town rallied to save the castle, forming a human chain to pass paintings, furniture, and books out of the burning building to safety. It was a miraculous effort that saved the contents of the castle. A massive fundraising campaign followed, and the castle was lovingly restored.
Grounds and Activities
The 16-acre garden is a mix of formal lawns and wilder woodland.
- The Formal Gardens: The lawns on the seaward side of the castle are laid out in the 'Flag' pattern, best viewed from the upper windows of the castle. The borders are filled with rhododendrons and azaleas, which thrive in the acidic soil and mild, damp climate of Argyll.
- Dun Na Cuaiche Watchtower: For the energetic, a steep woodland walk leads up to the watchtower of Dun Na Cuaiche, perched on a hill 248 meters above the castle. The climb takes about 30-45 minutes, but the view from the top is spectacular, offering a panorama of the castle, the town, and the long stretch of Loch Fyne.
- Tea Room: Keep an eye out for the castle's tea room, which often serves produce from the estate.
Visitor Information
Inveraray is located on the A83, a scenic drive about 60 miles northwest of Glasgow.
- Opening Times: The castle is generally open from late March to October. It closes for the winter months as it is still a family home and needs maintenance (and heating a stone castle is no small feat!).
- Tickets: Tickets can be bought at the door or online. There are combined tickets available for the Castle and the nearby Inveraray Jail museum.
- Accessibility: There is wheelchair access to the ground floor (Armoury Hall, State Dining Room, Tapestry Room) via a ramp. However, there are no lifts to the upper floors (bedrooms and clan display). A photo book of the upper floors is available for those who cannot climb the stairs.
- Parking: There is a car park at the castle for visitors.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Does the Duke still live there?
- Yes, the Duke and Duchess of Argyll and their children live in a private apartment within the castle. You are walking through their home!
- Is there a ghost?
- Several. Apart from the Harper, there is the legend of the 'Ghost Ship' or Galley of Lorne, which is said to appear on the horizon of Loch Fyne to foretell the death of the Clan Chief. It was last reportedly seen in 1949 before the death of the 10th Duke.
- Can I take photos?
- Photography for personal use is generally permitted in the main halls, but flash and tripods are usually restricted to protect the fabrics and paintings.