The Iconic Ruin of Loch Awe
Kilchurn Castle is arguably one of the most scenic and photographed castles in all of Scotland. Its dramatic position on a rocky peninsula at the northeastern end of Loch Awe, framed by the towering peaks of Ben Cruachan, makes it the quintessential image of a Highland fortress. Unlike many other famous Scottish castles that have been restored or turned into museums, Kilchurn remains a raw, majestic ruin, offering visitors a hauntingly beautiful glimpse into the turbulent past of the Campbell clan.
History and Origins
The castle was built around 1450 by Sir Colin Campbell, the first Lord of Glenorchy. At that time, it sat on a small island in the loch, accessible only by boat or a submerged causeway. Sir Colin built the original five-story tower house, which still stands as the core of the structure today. It served as the power base for the Campbells of Glenorchy as they expanded their territory and influence across Argyll.
Over the following centuries, the castle was expanded and fortified. In the 16th and 17th centuries, Sir Duncan Campbell added a lower hall and a courtyard wall, transforming the simple tower house into a more substantial garrison. The castle played a significant role during the turbulent times of the Jacobite Risings. In 1689, it was garrisoned by government troops to prevent it from falling into the hands of Jacobite rebels. To accommodate the soldiers, the castle was converted into a barracks, and a new block was added to the north side. This military occupation continued through the 1715 and 1745 uprisings.
The castle's demise began in 1760, when it was struck by a violent lightning storm. The strike shattered the tower and caused a fire that destroyed the roof and wooden floors. By this time, the Campbells had moved to the more comfortable Taymouth Castle, and they decided not to repair Kilchurn. The roofless fortress was abandoned to the elements, slowly decaying into the picturesque ruin we see today. Interestingly, the water levels of Loch Awe dropped significantly in the 19th century due to drainage work, connecting the island permanently to the mainland and making the castle easier to access.
Architecture and Layout
Despite being a ruin, Kilchurn Castle is remarkably well-preserved in its structural outline, allowing visitors to clearly understand its layout and evolution. The complex is dominated by the original 15th-century Donjon (Keep), which stands at the southeast corner. Although the floors are gone, you can look up through the hollow shell of the tower to the sky above. The sheer height of the walls is a testament to the defensive needs of the time.
Surrounding the courtyard are the remains of the later additions. The barracks block, built in the late 17th century, is the most substantial of these. It stands three stories high and retains some of its window frames and fireplaces. This L-shaped addition effectively turned the castle into a modern (for the time) military garrison capable of housing 200 soldiers. You can walk through the ruined halls and imagine the soldiers huddled around the fireplaces during the cold Highland winters.
One of the most interesting features is the circular tower at the corner of the courtyard, known as the 'Angle Turret'. It features gun loops and defensive slots, highlighting the shift from medieval warfare (arrows and swords) to gunpowder warfare. The views from the parapets and the courtyard are breathtaking, looking out over the dark waters of Loch Awe and the misty mountains beyond.
Visiting Kilchurn Castle
Visiting Kilchurn is a bit of an adventure. It is located near the village of Dalmally in Argyll. There is a small car park off the A85 road, from which a gravel path leads you under the railway line and across the marshy headland to the castle. The walk takes about 10-15 minutes and offers stunning views of the castle against the backdrop of the loch.
Access to the interior of the castle is seasonal (usually April to September) and is managed by Historic Environment Scotland. However, the exterior is accessible year-round, and arguably, the best experience is simply walking around the perimeter to admire the reflection of the ruins in the still water. It is a favorite spot for landscape photographers, especially at sunrise or sunset when the light hits the ancient stones.
Legends and Folklore
Like any good Scottish castle, Kilchurn has its legends. One famous story concerns the builder, Sir Colin Campbell. It is said that while he was away on a crusade in the Holy Land for seven years, rumors reached his wife that he had died. A rival neighbor, the Baron McCorquodale, proposed to her, and eventually, she agreed to marry him. However, Sir Colin was not dead. He had a dream telling him of the impending wedding and rushed home.
He arrived on the day of the wedding disguised as a beggar. When he asked for a drink, the lady of the house gave him a cup. He drank the wine and dropped his signet ring into the empty cup before handing it back to her. Recognizing the ring, she realized her husband had returned. The Baron McCorquodale made a hasty retreat, and Sir Colin reclaimed his castle and his wife. This 'return of the crusader' motif is common in folklore, but it adds a romantic layer to the history of Kilchurn.
Why It's a Must-Visit
Kilchurn Castle may not have the furnished rooms of Edinburgh Castle or the royal history of Stirling, but it possesses a raw, atmospheric beauty that is unmatched. It feels wild and remote, a true relic of the Highlands. Whether you are a history buff interested in the clan wars, a photographer chasing the perfect light, or just a traveler looking for a scenic stop on the way to Oban or Glencoe, Kilchurn is an unforgettable destination. Its silence, broken only by the cry of gulls and the lapping of the loch water, speaks volumes about the passage of time.
The Campbell Connection
The rise of the Campbells of Glenorchy is intimately tied to Kilchurn. From this fortress, they expanded their power base ruthlessly. Sir Colin, the builder, was known as 'Black Colin of Rome' due to his travels. His descendants continued this tradition of expansion, often at the expense of the neighboring Clan Gregor. The castle was the launchpad for many raids and the site of many political maneuverings that shaped the history of Argyll. Understanding Kilchurn is key to understanding the dominance of the Campbells in the West Highlands.
Flora and Fauna
Beyond history, the site is a haven for wildlife. The marshy headland is home to varied birdlife, including herons, ducks, and geese. In the summer, the meadows around the castle are full of wildflowers. Visitors often spot Highland cows grazing in the adjacent fields, adding to the picturesque Scottish scene. The ecological value of the Loch Awe shoreline is significant, and the castle ruins provide a habitat for bats and nesting birds.
Photography Tips
For the best photos, head to the 'Panoramic Viewpoint' on the opposite side of the loch (near the Kilchurn Castle Viewpoint car park). From here, you can capture the castle reflected in the water with the mountains behind it. Early morning mist often hangs over the loch, creating a mystical atmosphere. Alternatively, walking right up to the base of the tower allows for impressive wide-angle shots that emphasize the scale of the masonry.