A Romance in Stone
Set against the brooding backdrop of the Dunderry Mountains and reflecting perfectly in the dark waters of Pollacapall Lough, Kylemore Abbey is one of Ireland's most photographed buildings. But before it was an abbey, it was a castle—a testament to one man's devotion to his wife. It was built between 1867 and 1871 by Mitchell Henry, a wealthy English doctor and politician, for his wife, Margaret. During their honeymoon in Connemara in 1850, Margaret fell in love with the landscape. Years later, Henry bought the 15,000-acre estate and spared no expense in creating a fairytale neo-Gothic castle that would serve as their family home. He hired the architect James Franklin Fuller to design the building, which incorporated elements of Norwich Cathedral and other Gothic masterpieces.
The Tragedy of the Henrys
The castle was designed to be a modern marvel of the Victorian age. It boasted 33 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, 4 sitting rooms, a ballroom, a billiard room, and a library. It had its own gasworks for lighting and a hydro-electric plant. Mitchell Henry planted thousands of trees to shelter the estate from the Atlantic winds and transformed the bogland into a garden paradise. The estate became a model of benevolence; Henry employed hundreds of locals during the recovery from the Great Famine, building schools and post offices.
However, happiness at Kylemore was short-lived. In 1874, just three years after the castle was completed, Margaret contracted dysentery while on a family holiday in Egypt and died at the age of 45. A heartbroken Mitchell Henry brought her body back to Kylemore and laid her to rest in a small mausoleum in the woods near the castle. He also built the stunning Gothic Church nearby in her memory. It is a 'cathedral in miniature,' with marble pillars from the four provinces of Ireland (green from Connemara, red from Cork, black from Kilkenny, and grey from Armagh), symbolizing Henry's love for his adopted country as well as his wife. The acoustics of the church are so perfect that it is still used for choral performances today.
The Benedictine Nuns
The estate changed hands a few times after Henry's death, notably owned by the Duke and Duchess of Manchester, who were forced to sell it due to gambling debts. In 1920, it found its current guardians: the Benedictine Nuns. These nuns had fled their ancient abbey in Ypres, Belgium, during the heavy bombardment of World War I. Finding sanctuary in the wilds of Connemara, they converted the castle into an abbey and opened an international boarding school for girls, which ran until 2010. For nearly a century, the nuns educated generations of young women, including Indian princesses and daughters of the Irish elite.
Today, the nuns still live and work here, maintaining the tradition of hospitality and prayer. They produce handcrafted chocolate and soap, which are sold in the gift shop, helping to fund the restoration of the estate. Visitors can sometimes hear them chanting Vespers in the church, adding a spiritual dimension to the visit.
The Victorian Walled Garden
One of the highlights of a visit to Kylemore is the 6-acre Victorian Walled Garden. Located about a mile from the castle (accessible by a shuttle bus or a scenic woodland walk), it is one of the last walled gardens built during the Victorian period in Ireland. It was so advanced for its time that it had 21 heated glasshouses, growing exotic fruits like bananas and grapes in the damp Irish climate. The garden has been meticulously restored, with only plant varieties from the Victorian era being grown. It is divided into two sections: the flower garden, designed for pleasure and promenading, and the kitchen garden, which supplied the castle with food.
The restoration of the garden is a story of dedication in itself. By the late 20th century, it had become an overgrown wilderness. Using original maps and photographs, the gardening team has brought it back to its 1870s glory. The Head Gardener's House has also been restored, giving visitors a glimpse into the hierarchy of Victorian domestic staff.
Architecture and Interiors
Visitors can tour the ground floor of the abbey, which has been restored to reflect the Henry period. The Entrance Hall, with its oak paneling and family portraits, sets the tone of Victorian grandeur. The Dining Room and the Drawing Room are furnished with period pieces, and guides share stories of the Henry family's life, from their lavish parties to their benevolent treatment of their tenants. One poignant artifact is the 'Angel of the Resurrection' stained glass window in the church, depicting Margaret Henry ascending to heaven.
The Ironing Stone
On the grounds, near the Gothic Church, lies a large, flat stone known as the Ironing Stone (Cloch na hIarainn). Local legend says that this stone is a 'wishing stone.' If you throw a pebble over the stone three times backwards without looking, your wish will come true. However, it is actually a glacial erratic, deposited here thousands of years ago during the last Ice Age, a reminder of the ancient geological forces that shaped this landscape.
Visitor Information
Kylemore Abbey is located on the N59 in the heart of Connemara, about an hour's drive from Galway City. It is a must-see stop on the Wild Atlantic Way. The estate is open year-round, offering a restaurant and tea rooms that serve home-baked goods using recipes from the nuns. The combination of the tragic romantic history, the spiritual serenity of the nuns, and the untamed beauty of the Connemara landscape makes Kylemore a unique destination. Walking the woodland trails around the lake offers peace and reflection, far removed from the modern world.