Matsumoto Castle (Matsumoto-jo) is a National Treasure of Japan and one of the most stunning examples of feudal castle architecture. Located in the city of Matsumoto, in the Nagano Prefecture, it sits against the dramatic backdrop of the Japanese Alps. Unlike many Japanese castles that were rebuilt in concrete after World War II, Matsumoto is one of only twelve original surviving castles. Its main keep (Tenshu) dates back to the late 16th century, allowing visitors to walk on the same wooden floors as the samurai of the Sengoku period.
The Crow Castle
The castle is affectionately known as the "Crow Castle" (Karasu-jo) because of its distinctive black wainscoting. This stands in contrast to the "Heron Castle" (Himeji Castle), which is white. The black lacquer was not just for aesthetics; it helped protect the wood from the elements.
Architecture: A Complex Masterpiece
Matsumoto Castle is unique for its complex layout, which combines a wartime fortress with a peacetime viewing tower.
5 Roofs, 6 Floors
From the outside, the main keep appears to have five stories. However, once inside, visitors discover a secret hidden third floor. This windowless floor was designed as a safe storage area for food and gunpowder and a place for samurai to rest during battle, safe from enemy fire. Thus, the castle actually has six floors.
The Tsukimi-yagura (Moon Viewing Wing)
One of the most charming features of Matsumoto Castle is the red-railed wing attached to the main keep. This is the Moon Viewing Wing. It was built in 1633 by Matsudaira Naomasa, the grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu. By this time, the chaotic warring states period had ended, and the samurai class began to focus on arts and culture.
This wing has no defensive features—no gun ports, no stone drops. Instead, it has large sliding doors that open on three sides to provide an unobstructed view of the moon rising over the mountains. It symbolizes the transition of the castle from a military bunker to a symbol of political prestige.
Inside the Keep: Steep Stairs and Gun Ports
Entering the castle requires taking off your shoes and climbing the original wooden staircases. These stairs are incredibly steep (some at a 61-degree angle) and narrow, designed to make it difficult for armored enemies to rush up them. Unlike modern reconstructions, the interior is dark, smelling of old wood, and atmospheric.
- The Teppō-gura (Gun Museum): On the second floor, there is an impressive collection of matchlock guns (Teppō) and armor. The collection was donated by Michishige Akahane, a local citizen who spent 30 years collecting them. It showcases the evolution of gunnery in Japan and features rare artifacts, including sniper rifles and hand cannons.
- Gun and Arrow Ports: The walls are lined with rectangular holes for arrows (yazama) and square holes for matchlock guns (teppozama). The castle was built during the time when firearms were changing Japanese warfare.
- Stone Drops: Overhanging sections called ishi-otoshi allowed defenders to drop stones or boiling liquids onto enemies trying to scale the stone walls.
The Daimyo's Lifestyle
While the castle was primarily military, the layout also reflects the hierarchy of feudal Japan. The fourth floor was the Daimyo's (feudal lord's) residence in case of a siege. It has higher ceilings, smoother pillars, and large windows to let in light. It was a place of command, but also a place of anxiety during war. The fact that the lord lived so high up symbolized his status above his retainers, but it also made him the final target. Visiting this floor allows you to imagine the perspective of a ruler looking out over his domain, watching for approaching armies.
The Vermilion Bridge
While the castle itself is a monochrome masterpiece of black and white, the bright red Uzumibashi Bridge provides a striking splash of color. Although the current bridge is a reconstruction and is often closed to foot traffic for preservation, it serves as the foreground for the classic postcard view of the castle. It spans the outer moat, which is still filled with water and inhabited by carp and swans, adding to the serene beauty of the fortress.
History: Saved by the People
The castle was built by the Ishikawa family starting in 1590. Throughout the Edo period, it was ruled by various daimyo families. However, its survival was never guaranteed.
The Meiji Restoration Crisis
After the Meiji Restoration in 1868, the new government viewed castles as useless symbols of the feudal past. Many were demolished. Matsumoto Castle was sold at auction for scrap wood. It was saved by a local campaign led by Ichikawa Ryozo, a prominent figure from the town, who rallied the community to buy the castle back and preserve it. Today, it stands as a testament to the pride of the local people.
Visitor Tips
- Be Prepared for Stairs: The climb to the top of the keep is physically demanding. The stairs are steep, slippery (you must wear socks), and the ceiling is low in places. It is not suitable for those with mobility issues.
- The Red Bridge: The iconic red bridge leading to the castle is a reconstruction, but it provides the classic photo angle with the black castle and the Alps in the background.
- Cherry Blossoms: Matsumoto is famous for its cherry blossoms (sakura). In mid-April, hundreds of trees bloom around the moat, creating a pink reflection on the water that contrasts beautifully with the black castle.
- Festivals: The castle hosts several events, including a Taiko Drum Festival in summer and an Ice Carving Festival in winter.
Frequently Asked Questions
- How do I get there?
- The castle is a 15-minute walk or a short bus ride (Town Sneaker Bus) from JR Matsumoto Station. Matsumoto is accessible by limited express train from Tokyo (Shinjuku) or Nagoya.
- Why is it flatland?
- Unlike many castles built on mountains (yamashiro), Matsumoto is a hirajiro (flatland castle). It relied on an extensive system of three moats and heavy stone walls for defense rather than natural terrain.
- Can I take photos inside?
- Yes, photography is allowed inside the castle, but tripods and selfie sticks are prohibited to protect the historic wood and ensure visitor safety.