The Guardian of the Vecht
Just a stone's throw from Amsterdam, at the mouth of the River Vecht where it flows into the IJsselmeer (formerly the Zuiderzee), stands the Muiderslot. With its square plan, round corner towers, moat, and drawbridge, it is exactly what a child draws when asked to draw a castle. But the Muiderslot is far more than a stereotype; it is a national icon of the Netherlands, a brick-and-mortar chronicle of Dutch history from the Middle Ages to the Golden Age.
Today, it serves as a national museum (Rijksmuseum Muiderslot), inviting visitors to explore over 700 years of history. Whether you are interested in medieval knights, 17th-century poetry, or simply enjoying a walk in a Renaissance garden, the Muiderslot offers a window into the soul of the Netherlands.
The Murder of Count Floris V
The castle's story begins with violence. In roughly 1280, Count Floris V of Holland built a stone fortress at this strategic location to control the toll on trade ships sailing to Utrecht. Floris was a popular ruler, known as "God of the Peasants" for granting rights to the common people. However, this popularity made him enemies among the nobility.
In 1296, a group of disgruntled nobles kidnapped the Count during a falconry hunt and imprisoned him in his own castle. After five days of captivity, he attempted to escape but was brutally stabbed to death by his captors just outside the castle walls (allegedly receiving 22 stab wounds). In the aftermath, the castle was razed to the ground by the citizens of Utrecht. The structure we see today is largely a 14th-century reconstruction on the original foundations, but the ghost of Floris V is said to still haunt the towers, lamenting his betrayal.
The Dutch Golden Age and the Muiden Circle
The castle's second golden age was literary rather than military. In 1609, the writer and historian Pieter Corneliszoon Hooft—often called the "Dutch Shakespeare"—was appointed Drost (steward) of Muiden and Bailiff of Gooiland. He took up residence in the Muiderslot and transformed the cold medieval fortress into a warm center of culture and humanism.
During the summer months, Hooft invited the greatest minds of the Dutch Golden Age to stay with him. This group, which included the poet Joost van den Vondel, the scholar Caspar Barlaeus, and the composer Constantijn Huygens, became known as the Muiderkring (Muiden Circle). They spent their days discussing philosophy, reciting poetry, playing music, and enjoying the gardens. The castle became a temple of the arts, a sharp contrast to its bloody origins.
Hooft's influence is still palpable in the castle. Visitors can see his study, the "Ridderzaal" (Knight's Hall) where the group met, and the furniture that reflects the wealth and taste of the 17th century.
Architecture and Defense
Architecturally, the Muiderslot is a classic square water castle. It is built almost entirely of brick, a typical feature of Dutch castles due to the lack of natural stone in the region. The walls are 1.5 meters thick, designed to withstand the siege engines of the Middle Ages.
However, the castle's defensive role extended far beyond its walls. Muiderslot was a key linchpin in the Oude Hollandse Waterlinie (Old Dutch Water Line), a defensive system that used water as a weapon. By opening sluices, the Dutch could flood the land around the castle to knee-depth—too deep for armies to march through, but too shallow for boats to sail. This innovative defense kept the heart of Holland safe from invaders for centuries.
The Gardens: A Renaissance Oasis
Surrounding the castle are the lovingly restored gardens. When P.C. Hooft lived here, the garden was not just for show; it was a source of food and medicine. Today, the garden is divided into two parts: the Warmoeshof (vegetable garden) and the Kruidhof (herb garden).
The Warmoeshof features "forgotten" vegetables that were common in the 17th century but are rarely seen in supermarkets today, such as cardoons and parsnips. The Kruidhof is filled with aromatic and medicinal plants, arranged in geometric patterns. But the highlight is the Plum Orchard. P.C. Hooft famously ended his letters to friends with the phrase "Tot in de pruimentijd" (Until the plum season), inviting them to visit when the fruit was ripe. Walking under the plum trees today, you can almost hear the laughter of the Muiderkring.
Inside the Museum
A visit to Muiderslot is divided into two distinct routes:
1. The Golden Age Route
This route takes you through the furnished rooms of the 17th century. You can see the kitchen, the bedrooms with their box beds (Dutch people slept sitting up to prevent blood rushing to the head!), and the grand halls where Hooft entertained. It offers an intimate look at daily life in the Dutch Republic.
2. The Tower Route
This route focuses on the castle's medieval past. You climb the narrow, winding stairs of the towers and walk along the battlements. Exhibits explain the armor, weapons, and defense strategies of the Middle Ages. Be warned: the stairs are steep and narrow, designed to slow down attackers!
Falconry and Activities
The Muiderslot keeps the tradition of falconry alive. Count Floris V was a passionate falconer (which led to his capture), and today, during the summer season (April to October), a falconer is often present in the castle courtyard. Visitors can see birds of prey like owls, falcons, and buzzards up close and watch flying demonstrations. It adds a dynamic, living element to the historical stone setting.
Planning Your Visit
Muiderslot is easily accessible from Amsterdam.
- By Ferry: In the summer, the most scenic way to arrive is by the majestic ferry from Amsterdam IJburg. Approaching the castle from the water gives you the same view that traders and invaders would have had centuries ago.
- For Kids: The museum is exceptionally child-friendly, with scavenger hunts, dressing-up chests where kids can put on knight costumes, and interactive games.
- Accessibility: Due to the many stairs and historic layout, the Tower Route is not accessible for wheelchairs or strollers, but the gardens and the courtyard are.
The Muiderslot is a survivor. It has weathered political assassinations, enemy sieges, and the passage of time. It stands as a proud testament to Dutch resilience, a brick fortress that became a home for poetry, proving that the pen can indeed flourish alongside the sword.