The Pearl of the Spessart
Hidden deep within a quiet valley of the Spessart forest, between Frankfurt and Würzburg, lies one of Germany's most romantic sights: Schloss Mespelbrunn. Unlike the imposing hilltop fortresses of the Rhine or the fairytale palaces of King Ludwig II, Mespelbrunn is intimate, serene, and almost impossibly picturesque. It is a classic Wasserschloss (water castle), rising directly from the calm waters of a small lake, its reflection shimmering against a backdrop of dense green hills.
It is often called the "Pearl of the Spessart," and for good reason. Because of its secluded location, it is one of the few castles in Germany that was never destroyed by war. While the Thirty Years' War ravaged the surrounding lands, Mespelbrunn remained untouched, a sleeping beauty that woke up in the modern era with its Renaissance charm perfectly intact.
From Knight's House to Noble Residence
The story of Mespelbrunn begins in the early 15th century. In 1412, the Archbishop of Mainz gave the site to his forestry master, Hamann Echter, as a reward for his services against the Czech Hussites. At the time, the Spessart was a wild and dangerous place, infested with bandits and highwaymen. Echter built a simple house on the pond, but his son, Hamann II, began to fortify it. He pulled down the old house and built a stronger castle with walls and towers to protect his family from the lawless forest.
However, the castle's current appearance is largely due to the work of the later generations in the mid-16th century. As times became more peaceful (or perhaps the family became more powerful), the defensive fortress was transformed into a comfortable Renaissance manor. The windows were enlarged, the facades were decorated, and the "Julius Tower" was added.
The Echter Family and Julius Echter
The name Echter von Mespelbrunn is inextricably linked to the castle. The most famous member of the family was Julius Echter (1545–1617), who became the Prince-Bishop of Würzburg. He was a monumental figure in Franconian history, a leader of the Counter-Reformation, and a great builder. He founded the University of Würzburg and the Juliusspital (a famous hospital and winery). Although he lived in the grand residence at Würzburg, his family home at Mespelbrunn remained a symbol of their roots.
In 1665, the male line of the Echter family died out. Through marriage, the castle passed to the Counts of Ingelheim, a noble family from the Rhine. Remarkably, the family—now known as the Counts of Ingelheim called Echter von und zu Mespelbrunn—still owns and lives in the castle today. They reside in the southern wing, while the northern wing is open to the public, allowing visitors to walk through a home that has been continuously occupied for over 600 years.
The Inn in the Spessart
For many Germans, Schloss Mespelbrunn is instantly recognizable from the silver screen. In 1958, it served as the primary location for the film Das Wirtshaus im Spessart (The Inn in the Spessart), starring the beloved actress Liselotte Pulver. The film, a musical comedy based on a fairytale by Wilhelm Hauff, tells the story of a countess who is kidnapped by the notorious Spessart bandits.
The movie was a massive hit and turned Mespelbrunn into a major tourist destination. Even today, the castle retains a cinematic quality. Walking across the bridge and into the courtyard, visitors half-expect to see bandits in tricorn hats jumping out from behind the rose bushes.
Inside the Castle
A tour of Mespelbrunn is a journey into the past. Because the castle was never destroyed, many of the furnishings are original or have been with the family for centuries.
- The Knight's Hall (Rittersaal): This room features suits of armor, pikes, and ancestral portraits. The imposing red sandstone pillars and the intricate stained glass windows, which date back to the 16th century, display the coats of arms of the Echter family and their noble connections.
- The Chapel: Located in the distinctive round tower (the Julius Tower), the chapel is a masterpiece of late Gothic style. It was built by Hamann Echter's wife in 1517. The altar is made of alabaster, and the atmosphere is one of quiet devotion.
- The Library: Though small, the library contains rare books and manuscripts, reflecting the scholarly interests of the Prince-Bishops produced by the family.
- The Chinese Salon: A nod to the 18th-century fascination with the Far East, this room displays delicate porcelain and lacquerware.
Legends of the Spessart Bandits
The Spessart forest has a dark reputation. For centuries, the trade route between Frankfurt and Nuremberg ran through these dense woods, making it a prime hunting ground for robbers. The "Spessarträuber" (Spessart bandits) became legendary figures, half-criminals, half-Robin Hoods.
One legend associated with the castle tells of a young Echter knight who fell in love with a peasant girl. Forbidden to marry her, he joined a band of robbers to amass a fortune. When he returned years later, wealthy but wounded, he died in her arms at the gates of the castle. It is said that on foggy autumn mornings, a lonely figure can be seen pacing the causeway, waiting for a love that was lost to the forest.
Planning Your Visit
Mespelbrunn is located about an hour's drive from Frankfurt or Würzburg. It is an ideal stop on a road trip through Bavaria.
- Access: Visitors must park in the designated lot at the edge of the forest and walk about 10 minutes through the park to reach the castle. This short walk adds to the sense of discovering a hidden treasure.
- Tours: The interior can only be visited by guided tour (usually in German, but English information sheets are available). The tours are intimate and full of family anecdotes.
- The Gardens: Even without a tour, the grounds are worth the admission. You can walk around the lake, admiring the reflection of the towers and feeding the trout that thrive in the moat.
- Nearby: The pilgrimage church of Hessenthal, just a few kilometers away, contains the tombs of the Echter family, including a magnificent monument to Julius Echter's parents by the sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider.
Schloss Mespelbrunn is a reminder that the most beautiful castles are not always the biggest. Its charm lies in its survival, its setting, and its story—a quiet stone survivor in a forest of legends.