The Habsburgs' Versailles
With its sunshine-yellow facade stretching endlessly against the Viennese sky, Schönbrunn Palace (Schloss Schönbrunn) is the ultimate symbol of the power and prestige of the Habsburg dynasty. For centuries, this 1,441-room Baroque palace was the summer residence of the Emperors of Austria. It is where Marie Antoinette grew up, where Napoleon slept while conquering Europe, following his marriage to Marie Louise, and where the last Emperor, Charles I, signed the document ending 640 years of Habsburg rule in 1918.
The name 'Schönbrunn' means 'beautiful spring'. Legend has it that Emperor Matthias stumbled upon a crystal-clear spring while hunting in 1612 and exclaimed, 'Welch' schöner Brunn!' (What a beautiful spring). However, the palace we see today is almost entirely the result of the vision of one woman: Empress Maria Theresa.
Maria Theresa: The Mother of the Empire
In the mid-18th century, Maria Theresa (the only female ruler of the Habsburg dominions) transformed a modest hunting lodge into a glittering imperial capital. She needed a stage large enough to house her family (she had 16 children!) and her court.
It was here in the Hall of Mirrors that a six-year-old prodigy named Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart performed his first concert for the Empress. The story goes that after playing, the little boy jumped onto the Empress's lap and kissed her, charming the entire court. The palace walls still seem to echo with that history.
Standard of Living: Imperial Splendor
While the palace has over 1,400 rooms, only about 40 are open to the public. These 'State Rooms' offer a dazzling journey through the rococo era.
- The Great Gallery: This longer-than-a-football-field hall was the setting for imperial balls and receptions. Under its frescoed ceilings, statesmen danced and debated the fate of Europe during the Congress of Vienna in 1814-1815.
- The Millions Room: Paneled with rare rosewood and decorated with 260 precious Indian and Persian miniatures, this room is considered one of the finest rococo interiors in existence. It is called the 'Millions Room' because it cost a literal fortune to create.
- Franz Joseph's Bedroom: In stark contrast to the luxury elsewhere, the room of Emperor Franz Joseph I (who was born and died in the castle) is surprisingly spartan. He lived a disciplined soldier's life, sleeping on a simple iron army cot despite being the ruler of a vast empire.
- Sisi's Rooms: Visitors can also see the apartments of his famous wife, Empress Elisabeth ('Sisi'). Known for her obsession with beauty, her rooms include her exercise equipment, shocking the court of the time.
The Gardens: A Baroque Masterpiece
The park at Schönbrunn is as significant as the palace itself. Stretching for over a kilometer, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site designed to demonstrate the Habsburgs' dominance over nature.
The Gloriette
Crowning the hill opposite the palace is the **Gloriette**, a massive colonnaded structure topped with an imperial eagle. It was built in 1775 to 'honor the just war'. Today, it serves a much more peaceful purpose: it houses a café. Sitting there with a slice of Sacher Torte, looking down the hill at the yellow palace and the city of Vienna beyond, is one of the classic Viennese experiences.
The Neptune Fountain and Roman Ruin
Between the palace and the Gloriette lies the monumental Neptune Fountain, depicting the sea god holding court. Hidden in the trees nearby is the 'Roman Ruin', a folly built in 1778. It was designed to look like a crumbling ancient ruin (complete with overgrown vines) to symbolize the connection between the Habsburgs and ancient Rome, though it was built brand new.
The World's Oldest Zoo
Perhaps the most surprising feature of the grounds is the Tiergarten Schönbrunn. Founded in 1752 by Franz Stephan (Maria Theresa's husband), it is the undisputed oldest zoo in the world. Originally, it was a menagerie for the imperial family to marvel at exotic beasts like giraffes and elephants within a baroque pavilion setting. Today, it is a thoroughly modern conservation center, repeatedly voted the best zoo in Europe, yet the animals still live in enclosures that fan out from the original imperial breakfast pavilion.
Visitor Information
Schönbrunn is massive, so plan accordingly.
- Tours: There are two main tours. The 'Imperial Tour' (22 rooms) focuses on Franz Joseph and Sisi. The 'Grand Tour' (40 rooms) adds the 18th-century rooms of Maria Theresa. The Grand Tour is highly recommended to see the full splendor.
- The Gardens: The park itself is free to enter and is a popular jogging spot for locals. However, special sections like the Privy Garden, the Maze, and the Gloriette terrace require a separate ticket.
- Concerts: In the evenings, the Orangery (where Mozart actually competed in a musical duel against Salieri) hosts daily concerts featuring the music of Mozart and Strauss.
- Arrival: Take the U4 subway line (the green line) to the 'Schönbrunn' station. It is a 5-minute walk from there.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Why is it yellow?
- The distinct ochre color is known as 'Schönbrunn Yellow'. It became a signature of the Habsburg monarchy, and you will see government buildings and railway stations across the former Austro-Hungarian Empire (from Prague to Budapest) painted in this exact shade.
- Is it better than the Hofburg?
- They are different. The Hofburg (in the city center) was the winter residence and is more of a complex of museums. Schönbrunn was the summer residence and feels more like a cohesive palace with gardens. Most tourists prefer Schönbrunn.