The Fortress on the Sea
Rising abruptly from the Tyrrhenian Sea like a stone ship, the Aragonese Castle (Castello Aragonese) is the defining symbol of the island of Ischia. Located on a rocky volcanic islet, it is connected to the main island by a 220-meter stone bridge, the Ponte Aragonese. It is not just a castle; it is a fortified city suspended between the sky and the sea. For centuries, it served as a refuge for the entire population of Ischia against pirates, invasions, and volcanic eruptions. At its peak, nearly 2,000 families lived within its walls, along with a bishop, a prince, a garrison, and several orders of nuns and monks. It was a self-contained world, isolated by water and stone.
Today, it is a place of breathtaking beauty and quiet melancholy. The ruins of churches, convents, and prisons are overgrown with lush Mediterranean vegetation—olive trees, oleanders, and cacti. It is a vertical journey through time, where every step upward reveals a new layer of history and a wider view of the Gulf of Naples. The silence of the ruins speaks volumes about the lives once lived here.
History: A Sanctuary from Barbossa
The first fortress was built here by Hiero I of Syracuse in 474 BC. The Romans later used it as a defensive outpost. However, the castle gets its name and its current form from the Aragonese dynasty. In 1441, Alfonso V of Aragon rebuilt the old Angevin fortress. He strengthened the walls and built the stone bridge, replacing the old wooden one that could be easily burned. He anticipated the need for a stronger defense against the growing threat from the sea.
The castle's defenses were put to the ultimate test in the 16th century. The Mediterranean was plagued by the raids of the Barbary corsair Hayreddin Barbarossa. In 1544, Barbarossa attacked Ischia, taking 4,000 inhabitants as slaves. Those who made it to the castle were saved. For the next two centuries, the castle was the only safe place on the island. It housed 13 churches, a cathedral, and a convent. However, in 1809, during the Napoleonic Wars, the English fleet shelled the castle, destroying the cathedral and forcing the evacuation of the inhabitants. It later served as a prison for political dissidents during the Risorgimento, becoming a symbol of oppression before its eventual restoration.
Architecture: A City in the Sky
The castle covers an area of 56,000 square meters. The path to the top winds through a tunnel cut into the rock by Alfonso V. This tunnel features skylights that were also used to pour boiling oil on attackers, a brutal but effective defense mechanism.
The Nun's Cemetery
One of the most macabre and fascinating sights in the castle is the Cemetery of the Poor Clares** (Cimitero delle Monache Clarisse). When a nun died, she was not buried. Instead, her body was placed on a stone chair (scolatoi) in a windowless room. The fluids would drain away, and the body would slowly desiccate. The living nuns would come here daily to pray, surrounded by the decomposing bodies of their sisters. It was a powerful meditation on death (memento mori) and the uselessness of the physical vessel, but it was also a health hazard that likely contributed to the nuns' short life expectancy. It remains a chilling reminder of the austere faith of the era.
The Cathedral of the Assumption
The ruins of the **Cathedral of the Assumption** are hauntingly beautiful. The roof collapsed during the British shelling of 1809, leaving the nave open to the sky. The white stucco decorations still cling to the arches, contrasting with the blue sky above. In the crypt below, frescoes from the school of Giotto have been discovered, hinting at the artistic wealth that was lost. It is a romantic ruin in the truest sense.
The Church of the Immaculate Conception
Nearby stands the Church of the Immaculate Conception, whose dome dominates the skyline. Unlike the cathedral, it is still largely intact and offers a glimpse into the spiritual life of the castle's inhabitants. The stark white interior contrasts with the grey volcanic stone of the castle walls.
The Views and Gardens
The castle is also a botanical garden. The **Terrace of the Immortals offers one of the most spectacular views in Italy, overlooking the colorful harbor of Ischia Ponte, the island of Capri in the distance, and the imposing shape of Mount Vesuvius on the mainland. The terraced gardens are planted with vines and fruit trees, continuing the agricultural tradition of the monks who once lived here. The "Il Terrazzo" cafe provides a perfect spot to soak it all in, sipping local wine as the sun sets over the Mediterranean.
Visitor Information
Getting There
The castle is located in Ischia Ponte, on the eastern side of the island. Ischia is accessible by ferry or hydrofoil from Naples (Beverello or Porta di Massa ports). From Ischia Porto, you can take a bus (Line 7) or a taxi to Ischia Ponte. The walk across the stone bridge is part of the experience, offering views of the fishing boats below.
The Lift
The climb to the top is steep and involves walking on cobblestones. However, there is a modern elevator (lift) that takes visitors about two-thirds of the way up. It is recommended to take the lift up and walk down to see all the sights. Comfortable shoes are a must, as the paths can be uneven.
Events
The castle is privately owned by the Mattera family, who have lovingly restored it. It hosts art exhibitions, concerts, and the Ischia Film Festival every summer. There are two cafes/restaurants within the castle walls, offering the chance to drink wine produced from the castle's own grapes while watching the sunset over the sea. It is a magical experience that blends history, art, and nature. Don't forget to visit the Museum of the Sea and the Torture Museum within the castle complex for a deeper dive into its grim past.