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Caernarfon Castle

Caernarfon Castle

📍 Caernarfon, Wales 📅 Built in 1283

The Castle of Dreams and Nightmares

Caernarfon Castle is not merely a stronghold; it is a masterpiece of psychological warfare etched in stone. When King Edward I of England finally conquered Wales in 1283, he didn't just want to militarily occupy the land; he wanted to crush the Welsh spirit by hijacking their own mythology. The result is one of the most intimidating and architecturally unique buildings in the Middle Ages, a UNESCO World Heritage site that still dominates the town today.

Unlike his other "Iron Ring" castles (like Conwy or Beaumaris) which feature standard round towers and grey stone, Caernarfon is radically different. It features polygonal (many-sided) towers and distinctive color-banded walls, using alternating layers of light limestone and dark sandstone. This was a deliberate, calculated design choice. Edward I was mimicking the legendary walls of **Constantinople** (modern-day Istanbul), the capital of the Byzantine Roman Empire. By building a "new Constantinople" in Wales, he was sending a clear message: I am the new Roman Emperor, and you are now subjects of a new Imperial power.

The Legend of Macsen Wledig

Edward chose this specific spot at the mouth of the River Seiont because of an ancient Welsh legend recorded in the Mabinogion, known as *The Dream of Macsen Wledig*. In the story, a Roman Emperor named Macsen dreams of a trip across mountains and rivers until he finds a "great fortress at the mouth of a river" with multi-colored towers and a golden chair. When he wakes, he sends his men to find it, and they discover it in Caernarfon.

By building a multi-colored castle exactly where the legend placed it, Edward I was effectively rewriting Welsh prophecy. He was claiming that he was the true heir to the Roman legacy that the Welsh revered. It was a masterclass in medieval propaganda, using architecture to legitimize conquest.

The Birthplace of the Prince of Wales

Caernarfon is the birthplace of the title "Prince of Wales" for the English heir apparent, a tradition that remains politically charged to this day. In 1284, Edward's son (the future tragic King Edward II) was born here in the castle. The famous legend says that Edward I promised the Welsh nobility he would give them a prince "born in Wales who spoke no English." He then presented his screaming infant son, who indeed spoke no English—only the gibberish of a baby.

This tradition has continued for centuries. The castle has hosted two major modern investitures:

  • 1911: The investiture of the future King Edward VIII. It was a ceremony largely invented by the politician David Lloyd George to boost Welsh patriotism.
  • 1969: The investiture of **Prince Charles** (now King Charles III). This was a global television event watched by 500 million people. However, it took place during a period of intense Welsh nationalism. The castle was under tight security due to bomb threats from paramilitary groups, and the ceremony was boycotted by many locals. The slate dais where the Queen presented Charles to the people still stands in the lower ward, a lonely monument to a controversial day.

The King's Gate: A Medieval Kill Zone

The main entrance to the castle is through the **King's Gate**, widely considered the strongest and most sophisticated gatehouse ever designed in Britain. It was never fully finished, but even in its incomplete state, it was a terrifying obstacle for any attacker.

To enter the castle, an attacker would have to survive a gauntlet of death:

  1. Cross the drawbridge (now replaced by a permanent bridge).
  2. Breach **five separate heavy wooden doors**.
  3. Pass under **six iron portcullises**, which could be dropped instantly to trap soldiers in small killing zones.
  4. Survive the **murder holes** in the ceiling. These were not just for pouring boiling oil (which was expensive); they were mostly used to drop heavy rocks, boiling water, or quicklime (which burns the skin and blinds the eyes) onto the trapped men below.
  5. Avoid arrows fired from loops at different heights on both sides of the passage.
It is a wonder of military engineering, designed to ensure that anyone who entered without permission did not leave alive.

The Eagle Tower

The most impressive of the castle's towers is the **Eagle Tower**. It effectively functions as a castle within a castle. It has its own gate, portcullis, and water supply, meaning that even if the rest of the castle fell to an enemy, the King could retreat here and hold out indefinitely. It is named after the three stone eagles that sit atop its three turrets. These eagles were another Roman symbol, reinforcing the imperial theme. Inside, you can explore the royal apartments, including the small, dark room where Edward II was supposedly born (though historians argue it was likely a more comfortable chamber nearby).

The Royal Welsh Fusiliers Museum

Housed within two of the castle's towers is the museum of the **Royal Welsh Fusiliers**, one of the oldest and most decorated regiments in the British Army. Entry to the museum is included in your castle ticket. It is a fascinating detour, featuring:

  • Uniforms and weapons from over 300 years of warfare, from the American War of Independence to World War I and modern conflicts.
  • A showcase on **Siegfried Sassoon and Robert Graves**, the famous WWI poets who both served as officers in the regiment.
  • Medals won by soldiers for extreme bravery in the face of impossible odds.

The Town Walls

Caernarfon isn't just a castle; it's a fortified town. Edward I built a ring of stone walls around the settlement to protect the English settlers from the Welsh rebels outside. Today, you can walk almost the entire circuit of these walls. The walk offers spectacular views of the castle from different angles, as well as panoramic views across the Menai Strait to the Isle of Anglesey. It gives you a sense of how the castle dominated the scenery and controlled the sea traffic.

Visitor Information

  • Getting There: Caernarfon is located in North Wales, about 20 minutes from Bangor. There is plenty of parking at the Slate Quay car park directly below the castle walls—this is also the best spot for photos of the castle reflecting in the water.
  • Accessibility: Like many medieval fortresses, Caernarfon has many spiral staircases and uneven surfaces. However, recent renovations have added a specialized access ramp to the King's Gate, making the lower ward accessible to wheelchair users.
  • Timing: Allow at least 2-3 hours to fully explore the towers, the museum, and the walls. The castle is managed by Cadw (Welsh Heritage), so members get in free.