A Moorish Dream in the Heart of Tuscany
Hidden deep within the oak forests of Reggello, just 40 kilometers from Florence, lies a building that defies all logic. Castello di Sammezzano looks nothing like the Renaissance villas or medieval fortresses typical of Tuscany. Instead, it is a psychedelic explosion of color, geometry, and light—a masterpiece of Moorish Revival architecture that rivals the Alhambra in Granada and the Taj Mahal in Agra. With its kaleidoscope of intricate stucco work, dazzling ceramic tiles, and rainbow-colored domes, Sammezzano is a testament to the obsession of one man: Ferdinando Panciatichi Ximenes d'Aragona. It is widely considered one of the most beautiful, yet most endangered, monuments in Italy.
Currently abandoned and closed to the public, the castle has attained a mythical status. It exists primarily in the photographs of urban explorers and the memories of those lucky enough to visit during its brief openings. It is a "sleeping beauty," waiting for a restoration that will awaken its vibrant soul.
History: The Vision of Ferdinando
The site of Sammezzano has ancient roots, dating back to the Roman era. It hosted Charlemagne in 780 AD and belonged to the Medici family for centuries. However, the castle we see today is entirely the creation of the 19th century. In 1853, the property was inherited by Marquis Ferdinando Panciatichi Ximenes d'Aragona. Ferdinando was a man of the Enlightenment—a scientist, politician, and artist who felt alienated by the political climate of newly unified Italy. He withdrew to his estate and channeled his frustration and intellect into a singular project: transforming the old villa into an Oriental palace.
For forty years (1853–1889), he designed, supervised, and funded the reconstruction. He hired local craftsmen and trained them in the art of "Moorish" decoration. He did not travel to the East; his inspiration came from books and his own vivid imagination. He inscribed his thoughts in Latin on the walls of the castle. One reads: "Non plus ultra" (Nothing further beyond), signaling his belief that he had created the ultimate masterpiece.
After World War II, the castle became a luxury hotel and golf club, hosting celebrities and Hollywood stars. However, the business failed in the 1990s. Since then, the castle has been caught in legal limbo, auctioned multiple times without success, and left to decay. Despite its abandonment, the volunteer committee "Save Sammezzano" works tirelessly to raise awareness and protect it from vandalism.
Architecture: The Peacock Room and Beyond
The castle contains 365 rooms, one for every day of the year (though this is likely a legend, the actual number is smaller but still vast). Each room is unique, designed in a specific "Oriental" style—Moorish, Arabian, Indian, Spanish. The level of detail is suffocatingly beautiful.
The Peacock Room (Sala dei Pavoni)
The most iconic space is the Peacock Room. It is a fan-vaulted wonder where the stucco is painted in a mesmerizing pattern of vertical lines in brilliant reds, blues, greens, and golds, mimicking the tail feathers of a peacock. The geometry is dizzying. It is arguably the most photogenic room in Italy, often used in fashion shoots and music videos. The room represents the height of the chromatic experimentation that defines the castle.
The White Room (Sala Bianca)
In stark contrast is the White Room, a Moroccan-style circular hall dominated by pure white stucco lace. The light filters through colored glass in the dome, creating shifting patterns on the intricate walls. It is a space of silence and ethereal beauty, designed for music and contemplation.
The Hall of Lilies and the Stalactites
Other rooms feature "Muqarnas" (stalactite vaulting) typical of Islamic architecture, ceramic floors with geometric puzzles, and walls inscribed with Dante's verses. The Room of Lovers (Sala degli Amanti) is dedicated to noble romantic figures like Tristan and Isolde, with their names inscribed in the intricate lace-like walls. Ferdinando designed the castle as a journey through the East, a physical manifestation of his intellectual escape from Western reality.
The Park of Sequoias
Surrounding the castle is one of the largest historical parks in Tuscany (185 hectares). Ferdinando was also a passionate botanist. He planted over 130 species of rare and exotic trees. The most impressive feature is the collection of Giant Sequoias (Sequoiadendron giganteum) imported from California in the mid-19th century. Today, it is the largest group of giant sequoias in Italy, with the "Twin Sequoia" reaching over 50 meters in height. The park, unlike the castle, is generally accessible to hikers, offering a glimpse of the castle's facade through the massive trunks.
Legends: The Ghost of the Marquis
Local legends say that Ferdinando never really left. His presence is felt strongly in the castle. It is said that he wanders the empty halls, furious at the neglect of his masterpiece. Some trespassers claim to hear footsteps echoing in the empty ballroom or see shadows moving in the Peacock Room. The Latin inscriptions on the walls, often critical of Italian politics and society, add to the feeling that the Marquis is still speaking to visitors from beyond the grave.
Visitor Information
Current Status: Closed
Crucial Warning: As of 2024, Castello di Sammezzano is private property and strictly closed to the public. It is under surveillance. Entering without permission is illegal and dangerous due to the deteriorating condition of some structures.
How to See It
While you cannot enter the castle, you can hike in the surrounding park. The "Sentiero delle Sequoie" (Sequoia Trail) allows you to walk among the giant trees and get close to the exterior of the castle to admire its unique facade. The town of Leccio (part of Reggello) is the starting point.
Hope for the Future
Occasionally, the "Save Sammezzano" committee or the owners organize special opening days (e.g., FAI Spring Days), but these are rare and tickets sell out in seconds. It is highly recommended to follow the "Save Sammezzano" social media pages for any updates on restoration or special tours. Until then, it remains a bucket-list dream for millions, a hidden jewel waiting to be polished.