The Headquarters of the Crusaders
Cēsis Castle (Cēsu pils) is not just a ruin; it is a monument to the Northern Crusades and the fierce history of the Baltic region. Located in the heart of the Gauja National Park, the castle was for centuries the most important stronghold of the Livonian Order (a branch of the Teutonic Knights). From here, the Order's Masters ruled over the lands that are now Latvia and Estonia.
Today, the castle is one of the most romantic and evocative sites in the Baltics. Visitors are given a lantern with a real candle to explore the dark, winding staircases of the West Tower, an experience that transports you instantly back to the Middle Ages. The silence of the ruins, broken only by the cawing of crows, creates an atmosphere of mystery that few other castles can match.
The Rise of Wenden
Construction of the castle, originally known as Wenden, began around 1209 under Wenno von Rohrbach, the first Master of the Livonian Brothers of the Sword. It was built on a hill strategically overlooking the Gauja River valley. As the Order's power grew, so did the castle. By the 15th century, it had evolved into a massive stone complex with three fortified baileys, protected by deep moats and heavy artillery towers.
The castle was not just a military base; it was a diplomatic center. It hosted meetings of the Hanseatic League and received ambassadors from across Europe. The town of Cēsis grew up around its walls, thriving on the trade and security provided by the knights.
The Tragedy of 1577
The most dramatic and tragic event in the castle's history occurred during the Livonian War. In 1577, the army of Ivan the Terrible, the Tsar of Russia, besieged Cēsis. The castle was packed with hundreds of people—knights, citizens, women, and children—seeking refuge from the invading forces.
When the heavy Russian cannons breached the walls and defeat became inevitable, the defenders made a desperate decision. Rather than face the brutal treatment known to be meted out by Ivan's troops, they decided to take their own lives. They gathered in the main hall, placed barrels of gunpowder beneath the floor, and blew themselves up. The explosion caused the western wing of the castle to collapse, burying the defenders under tons of rubble. It was a mass suicide that shocked Europe, a testament to the horror inspired by the "Terrible" Tsar.
The New Castle and the Garden
After the Great Northern War in the early 18th century, the medieval castle was abandoned and fell into ruin. However, the site was not forgotten. In the 18th century, the "New Castle" (Cēsu Jaunā pils) was built on the site of the old gatehouse. This manor house became the residence of the Sievers family, who transformed the overgrown ruins into a romantic landscape park. The New Castle now houses the Cēsis History and Art Museum, with beautiful Biedermeier interiors and a tower that offers panoramic views of the town.
Exploring the Ruins
A visit to the medieval section is an adventure.
The West Tower
This is the highlight of any visit. Armed with your candle lantern, you climb the narrow stone steps to the Master's Chamber. This room, one of the few interiors to survive, features a magnificent star-vaulted ceiling and fragments of 16th-century wall paintings. It offers a rare glimpse into the private life of the Order's Master. The view from the windows looks out over the park, offering a peaceful contrast to the martial history of the tower.
The South Tower (Tall Hermann)
The most imposing structure from the outside is the Southern Tower, also known as "Tall Hermann." It was built in the 15th century specifically to house cannons. The walls are incredibly thick—over 4 meters at the base—to withstand artillery fire. In the basement, you can peer into the castle dungeon, a grim reminder of the Order's justice. The tower is often used for multimedia exhibitions that tell the story of the castle's defenses.
The Castle Garden
In the summer, the inner bailey is transformed into a medieval kitchen garden. The gardener grows only plants that were available in the Middle Ages—forgotten vegetables like skirret and turnip-rooted chervil, and medicinal herbs used by the knights. On weekends, craftsmen set up workshops in the garden, demonstrating ancient skills like bone carving, leatherworking, and bread baking in a clay oven. This living history element helps visitors understand the daily life of the people who lived and worked in the shadow of the Order.
Legends of the Red-White-Red Flag
Cēsis is often cited as the birthplace of the Latvian flag, one of the oldest national flags in the world. According to the Rhyme Chronicle of Livonia, during a battle near Cēsis in 1279, a wounded Latvian chief was wrapped in a white sheet. His blood stained the edges of the sheet red, leaving a white stripe in the middle. The Latvian soldiers used this blood-stained sheet as a banner in the next battle and were victorious. This red-white-red pattern became the symbol of Latvian resistance and identity.
The Woman in Green
Another legend whispers of the "Woman in Green." It is said that a young woman, the daughter of a castle craftsman, fell in love with a Swedish soldier during the Polish-Swedish wars. Betraying her people, she signaled the Swedes with a lantern from the tower. The defenders caught her and, as punishment, walled her up alive in the tower walls. Her ghost, dressed in green, is said to appear on moonlit nights, warning of impending danger or simply lamenting her tragic fate.
Planning Your Visit
Cēsis is easily reached by train or bus from Riga (approx. 2 hours).
- Candlelight Tours: The self-guided tour with a lantern is available year-round, but it is especially atmospheric in autumn and winter when the days are short.
- Festivals: Cēsis is known as the cultural capital of Vidzeme. The Cēsis Art Festival in summer brings concerts, exhibitions, and theater to the castle park. The Medieval Days in July are a must for history buffs, featuring reenactments of knightly tournaments.
- Nearby: The Gauja National Park offers hiking trails, sandstone cliffs, and the Ligatne nature trails, making Cēsis a perfect base for exploring nature.
Cēsis Castle is a place of contrasts: the darkness of the dungeon and the light of the candle; the violence of the Crusades and the peace of the garden. It stands as a powerful reminder of the layers of history that define the Baltic identity.