The House of Ages
"The true home of kings, the house of ages." This is how Napoleon Bonaparte described the Château de Fontainebleau, and it is a fitting title. While Versailles is the frozen-in-time symbol of the Sun King, Fontainebleau is a living timeline of French history. It is the only royal and imperial château to have been continuously inhabited for seven centuries. From the early Capetian kings in the 12th century to the fall of the Second Empire in 1870, 34 sovereigns have lived within these walls. Each monarch added a wing, a gallery, or a garden, creating a sprawling architectural complex that blends medieval austerity, Renaissance exuberance, and Classical majesty.
Located just 55 kilometers southeast of Paris, adjacent to a vast forest that served as a royal hunting ground, Fontainebleau offers a more intimate and varied experience than the overwhelming grandeur of Versailles. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site that tells the story of France not through a single era, but through the layers of time.
The Renaissance Masterpiece
While its origins are medieval, the château's golden age began in the 16th century with Francis I. The Valois king, fresh from his campaigns in Italy, wanted to bring the artistic revolution of the Renaissance to France. He invited Italian masters like Rosso Fiorentino and Primaticcio to transform the old hunting lodge into a 'New Rome'.
The Gallery of Francis I
The result of this patronage is the spectactular Gallery of Francis I. It is one of the most significant rooms in art history. Here, the artists invented a new style of decoration combining frescoes with high-relief stucco (plaster) sculptures. Garlands of fruit, mythological nymphs, and salamanders (the King's emblem) seem to burst from the walls, framing paintings intricate allegories of the King's power. This style became known as the School of Fontainebleau and influenced art across Northern Europe.
The Ballroom
Another highlight is the immense Ballroom, commissioned by Henry II. With its glittering frescoes, oak coffered ceiling, and vast fireplace, it was the setting for the glittering court life of the 16th century. It is easy to imagine the courtiers dancing here, illuminated by hundreds of candles, with the King and his mistress Diane de Poitiers presiding over the festivities.
Napoleon's Influence
Fontainebleau is inextricably linked with Napoleon I. After the chaos of the French Revolution, which left the château empty and stripped of furniture, Napoleon decided to restore it to its former glory. He saw it as the perfect setting to legitimize his new Imperial regime—standing in the footsteps of the kings who came before him.
The Throne Room
Interestingly, Napoleon converted the former King's Bedroom into his Throne Room. It is the only throne room in France that still retains its original furniture. The throne itself, decorated with imperial eagles and the initial 'N', sits under a velvet canopy. It is a powerful symbol of the transition from monarchy to empire.
The Farewell
The most emotional moment in the château's history took place in the main courtyard on April 20, 1814. Defeated by the coalition forces, Napoleon stood at the bottom of the famous Horseshoe Staircase to bid farewell to his loyal Old Guard before departing for exile on Elba. "Soldiers of my Old Guard: I bid you farewell. For twenty years I have constantly found you on the road to honor and glory..." The speech reportedly moved clear-hardened soldiers to tears. To this day, the courtyard is known as the Cour des Adieux (Courtyard of Farewells).
The Chinese Museum
A hidden gem within the palace is the Chinese Museum, created by Empress Eugénie (wife of Napoleon III) in 1863. It houses an incredible collection of art from the Far East, including gifts from the King of Siam and spoils from the sacking of the Summer Palace in Beijing. It is a darker, plush, Victorian interpretation of an oriental treasury, filled with jade, lacquerware, and porcelain, preserved exactly as the Empress left it.
Gardens and Park
The château is surrounded by 130 hectares of parks and gardens, which reflect the changing tastes of the monarchs.
- The Grand Parterre: Created by André Le Nôtre (who also designed the gardens of Versailles) for Louis XIV, this is the largest formal garden parterre in Europe. Its vast geometric patterns of box hedge and gravel are best appreciated from the château's terraces.
- The Carp Pond: This large ornamental lake is famous for its carp, some of which are rumored to be over a century old (though this is likely a myth!). Consider renting a small rowing boat to enjoy the views of the palace from the water.
- The English Garden: A winding, romantic landscape with rare trees and artificial rivers, created by Napoleon I to contrast with the rigid French formal gardens.
The Forest of Fontainebleau
One cannot mention the castle without the forest. Covering 25,000 hectares, the Forêt de Fontainebleau was the reason the castle was built here in the first place—it was the premier hunting ground of France. Today, it is a protected biosphere reserve and a mecca for rock climbers. The unique sandstone boulders that litter the forest floor attract 'bouldering' enthusiasts from all over the world. It is also a paradise for hikers, with miles of marked trails winding through ancient oak and pine trees.
Visitor Information
Fontainebleau is an easy day trip from Paris.
- Getting Mention: Take a train from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (approx. 40 mins), then take the 'Ligne 1' bus which drops you right in front of the château.
- Tickets: Access to the gardens and park is free. Tickets are required for the château interiors. The 'Grand Tour' ticket includes the papal apartments and the Renaissance rooms.
- Audio Guide: The audio guide is highly recommended as the history is complex and multi-layered.
- Events: The château hosts a famous music festival in the summer and historical reenactments of Napoleon's farewell in April.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Is it better than Versailles?
- It depends on what you like. Versailles is more famous, more gold, and much more crowded. Fontainebleau is more historic, more varied in style, and offers a more relaxed, authentic experience closer to how the kings actually lived.
- Can you engage in rock climbing nearby?
- Yes! The forest is world-famous for bouldering. You can rent crash pads in the town.
- How long does a visit take?
- Allow at least 2-3 hours for the château and another hour for a walk in the gardens.