The Ideal Castle
Imagine if someone asked you to draw a medieval castle. You would probably draw high stone walls, massive round towers with pointed slate roofs, a drawbridge, and maybe a few gargoyles. You would essentially be drawing Château de Pierrefonds. This imposing fortress, rising above the forest of Compiègne in northern France, is the ultimate romantic vision of the Middle Ages. But there is a twist: what you are seeing is largely a 19th-century fantasy.
Pierrefonds is a 're-invention'. Originally built in the late 14th century by Louis of Orléans (brother of King Charles VI), it was a genuine military stronghold designed to control the trade routes between Flanders and Burgundy. However, in the early 17th century, the castle was besieged and dismantled on the orders of King Louis XIII to stop his enemies from using it. For two centuries, it lay as a romantic, ivy-covered ruin—until Napoleon III came along.
Viollet-le-Duc's Masterpiece
In 1857, Emperor Napoleon III (nephew of Napoleon Bonaparte) decided he wanted a residence that would reconnect his empire with the glorious history of France. He hired the famous architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc to restore the ruins. Viollet-le-Duc was a genius, but he was also controversial. He believed that 'to restore a building is not to maintain it, repair it or remake it: it is to re-establish it in a complete state which may never have existed at any given moment.'
At Pierrefonds, he applied this philosophy to the extreme. He didn't just rebuild what was there; he built what he thought should have been there. He added extra towers, heightened the roofs, created a dazzling inner courtyard with Renaissance-style galleries, and invented defensive systems (like double-decker drawbridges) that were theoretically possible but historically unlikely. The result is a structure that is more 'castle-like' than any real medieval castle.
Inside the Fantasy
Walking through the interiors of Pierrefonds is a surreal experience. The rooms are a riot of color and pattern, combining medieval themes with 19th-century industrial techniques.
- The Hall of the Preuses (Salle des Preuses): This is the showstopper. It is an immense ballroom, 52 meters long, originally intended to house the Emperor's collection of armor. The barrel-vaulted ceiling is painted with eagles and fantastical beasts. At one end is a monumental double fireplace adorned with statues of the nine 'Preuses' (legendary female warriors from Arthurian and classical myth, such as Semiramis and Hippolyta). Fun fact: the faces of these statues were modeled after Empress Eugénie and her ladies-in-waiting!
- The Emperor's Bedroom: Napoleon III never actually stayed here overnight (the project dragged on too long), but his bedroom was fully decorated. It features a medieval-style bed but with carved details that look almost like Art Nouveau, showing how Viollet-le-Duc was ahead of his time.
- The Reception Room: This room connects the private apartments to the public state rooms. It features carved paneling that depicts the life of a knight, from his training as a page to his triumphs in battle. The attention to detail is staggering, with every inch of wood painted or gilded.
- The Chapel: Tucked into a corner of the courtyard, the chapel is a gem. Above the door stands a statue of Saint George slaying the dragon—except the face of Saint George is unmistakably that of Napoleon III, and the dragon looks suspiciously like the political opposition of the time. This kind of architectural propaganda was typical of the Second Empire.
The Crypt of Shadows
Deep in the cellars of the castle lies something entirely unexpected: a 'Ball of the Recumbents' (Le Bal des Gisants). This is a permanent exhibition of plaster casts of famous tomb effigies (gisants) from the Basilica of Saint-Denis. But instead of being laid out in rows, they are arranged in a dimly lit room with eerie sound and light effects, looking as if they are whispering secrets to each other. It adds a delicious layer of gothic spookiness to the visit.
The Castle on Screen
Because Pierrefonds looks so perfect, it has been the go-to location for fantasy TV and film directors for decades.
- BBC's Merlin: Most modern fans recognize Pierrefonds as Camelot. Almost all the exterior shots and courtyard scenes for the hit BBC series Merlin (starring Colin Morgan and Bradley James) were filmed here. You can stand on the exact steps where Arthur was crowned King or where Uther Pendragon shouted from the balcony.
- The Man in the Iron Mask: The 1998 movie starring Leonardo DiCaprio also used the castle as a stand-in for the Bastille and other French fortresses.
- Highlander: The Series: Multiple episodes featuring Duncan MacLeod used the castle's atmospheric interiors.
Visitor Information
Château de Pierrefonds is located about 80km northeast of Paris.
- Getting There: It is best reached by car (about 1 hour 15 minutes from Paris). By public transport, you can take a train to Compiègne and then a bus, but the bus service can be infrequent.
- The Village: The village of Pierrefonds itself is charming, centered around a lake where you can rent paddle boats in the summer. It offers beautiful views of the castle reflected in the water.
- Climbing Required: Be prepared for stairs. There are no elevators, and exploring the towers involves some steep climbs.
- The Forest: The castle is surrounded by the Forest of Compiègne, one of the largest and most beautiful forests in France. It's perfect for a post-castle picnic.