The Fairytale in the Forest
Deep within the Eltz Forest, hidden in a side valley of the Moselle River, lies a castle that seems to have defied time itself. Burg Eltz (Eltz Castle) is the epitome of a medieval fairytale castle. With its soaring stone towers, timber-framed oriels, pointed turrets, and slate roofs, it looks like a movie set—but it is entirely real. What makes Eltz Castle truly unique among German castles is its miraculous survival. While most Rhine and Moselle castles were destroyed by wars or neglect (like Heidelberg), Burg Eltz has never been destroyed. It stands today almost exactly as it did 500 years ago, surrounded by untouched nature.
33 Generations of Guardianship
The history of Burg Eltz is the history of a single family. The castle was first mentioned in a deed in 1157, associated with a man named Rudolf von Eltz. Astonishingly, the castle is still owned by the same family more than 850 years later. The current owner, Dr. Karl Graf von und zu Eltz-Kempenich, represents the 33rd generation of the Eltz family to care for this ancestral home. This unbroken line of ownership has allowed the castle to preserve its original furnishings, archives, and character in a way that state-owned museums cannot match. Walking through its halls, you are not just seeing a display; you are stepping into a living family history.
A Castle of Heirs: The Ganerbenburg
The unusual shape of Burg Eltz is due to its history as a Ganerbenburg, or a castle of heirs. In medieval Germany, inheritance laws sometimes required an estate to be divided among all siblings rather than passing solely to the eldest son. Since the family could not afford to build three separate castles, the three branches of the Eltz family (Eltz-Kempenich, Eltz-Rübenach, and Eltz-Rodendorf) decided to live together in one fortress.
They built their own separate living quarters (houses) around a central courtyard. Over five centuries, the castle grew upwards and outwards to accommodate the different families, resulting in the jumbled, picturesque skyline of eight towers we see today. The towers reach up to 35 meters high, clustering tightly on the 70-meter-high elliptical rock spur that forms the castle's foundation. The Elzbach River flows around the rock on three sides, creating a natural moat that made the castle difficult to attack.
The Treasury and Interiors
Because the castle was never looted or destroyed, its interiors are a time capsule of medieval and Renaissance life. Visitors can tour the living quarters of the Rübenach and Rodendorf families.
- The Knights' Hall (Rittersaal): This was the main meeting room for the three families. The heavy oak ceiling and the walls decorated with family crests speak of the castle's history. Above the entrance door is a 'Rose of Silence'—a symbol that nothing spoken in the room was to be repeated outside. It reminds visitors of the delicate diplomacy required when three families live under one roof.
- The Rodendorf Kitchen: One of the few preserved medieval kitchens in Europe, it looks as if the cooks have just stepped out. It features a giant chimney where oxen could be roasted whole, a dough trough, and a larder filled with supplies.
- The Bedroom: The Rübenach Bedchamber features a magnificent four-poster bed from 1520, covered with rich tapestries. The walls are painted with intricate floral patterns that have survived for centuries.
The Eltz Castle Treasury (Schatzkammer) is one of the most significant in Europe. It houses a vast collection of over 500 pieces, including gold and silver artifacts, porcelain, jewelry, and ceremonial weapons accumulated by the family over eight centuries. A highlight is the 'Duck of Eltz,' a whimsical drinking vessel in the shape of a duck.
The Eltz Feud
Although the castle was never destroyed, it did see conflict. The most famous was the Eltz Feud (1331–1336), where the Eltz lords rebelled against the Archbishop of Trier, Baldwin of Luxembourg. The Archbishop besieged the castle, building a siege castle (Trutzeltz) on a hillside opposite Burg Eltz to bombard it with catapults. You can still see the stone balls from this siege in the castle courtyard today. The Eltz family eventually surrendered and became vassals of the Archbishop, but their clever diplomacy ensured their home remained intact.
Hiking to the Castle
Part of the charm of Burg Eltz is its location. It is one of the few castles in Germany that cannot be seen from any modern road. The best way to arrive is on foot. The 'Eltz Castle Panorama Trail' is a popular hiking route that leads through the protected Eltz Forest. The moment the castle suddenly emerges from the trees, perched on its rock in the valley below, is one of the most magical experiences in Germany. It is the kind of view that graces the covers of travel guidebooks and Instagram feeds worldwide. The forest itself is a nature reserve, home to rare flora and fauna, making the walk an integral part of the experience.
Visitor Information
Burg Eltz is located near Wierschem, about a 30-minute drive from Cochem or Koblenz. There are two ways to reach it from the parking lot: a shuttle bus or a scenic 1.3-kilometer walk through the nature reserve. The castle is open daily from April 1st to November 1st. Because it is still a private residence, photography is allowed in the courtyard and Treasury but not inside the guided tour rooms. Arriving early (before 10 AM) or late in the afternoon is recommended to avoid the crowds.