The Castle of the Counts
In the middle of the bustling, modern city of Ghent, surrounded by trams, shops, and canals, stands a fortress that looks like it was dropped directly from the 12th century. This is the Gravensteen (Dutch for "Castle of the Counts"). With its high grey limestone walls, imposing gatehouse, and water-filled moat, it is the quintessential image of a medieval stronghold. Unlike many castles that are tucked away in the countryside, Gravensteen is an urban fortress, built not just to defend against foreign invaders, but to intimidate the citizens of Ghent themselves. It is a brooding symbol of the often violent power of the Counts of Flanders, a place where knights once jousted and where prisoners were once tortured.
Its survival is miraculous. Most urban castles in Europe were pulled down as cities expanded, but Gravensteen endured. Today, it offers a visceral experience of the Middle Ages, stripped of romanticism. It feels cold, hard, and imposing—exactly as it was intended to be. It is a striking contrast to the elegant guildhalls and churches that line the rest of the city's canals.
History: Power and Industry
The current castle was built in 1180 by Philip of Alsace, Count of Flanders. He had just returned from the Second Crusade, and the influence of the crusader castles he saw in Syria (like Krak des Chevaliers) is evident in the design. Philip wanted to assert his authority over the rich and rebellious merchants of Ghent. The inscription over the gatehouse originally read: "He who built this house is called Philip, Count of Flanders..."—a clear reminder of who was boss.
For centuries, it served as the seat of the Counts. However, in the 14th century, they abandoned it for more comfortable lodgings. The castle then took on a darker role as a courthouse and a prison. It was the site of torture and execution for criminals and heretics. In the 19th century, during the Industrial Revolution, the castle suffered an indignity common to many historic buildings: it was sold to an industrialist and turned into a cotton mill. Workers' housing was built in the courtyard, and smoke blackened the walls. It was almost demolished to make way for real estate development, but the city of Ghent bought it in 1885 and began a massive restoration to return it to its 1180 appearance.
Architecture: A Crusader's Vision
Gravensteen is a classic motte-and-bailey castle, though the motte (mound) is high and fortified with stone. The central Keep (Donjon) is the heart of the complex, rising three stories high. It contains the Great Hall, where the Counts held banquets, and the count's private residence. The architecture is sturdy and functional, with cross-shaped arrow slits and heavy oak doors.
The Gatehouse and Walls
The entrance is through a fortified gatehouse with machicolations (openings to drop stones/oil). The oval-shaped curtain wall features 24 protruding bartizans (small turrets) and a parapet walk that allows visitors to circle the entire castle. This walk offers one of the best panoramic views of Ghent, overlooking the famous three towers: St. Nicholas' Church, the Belfry, and St. Bavo's Cathedral. It is a photographer's dream, offering a unique perspective on the medieval city layout.
The Torture Museum
Gravensteen is famous (or infamous) for its Museum of Judicial Objects, located in the former pantry and dungeons. It houses a chilling collection of authentic torture instruments used in Ghent until the 18th century. Exhibits include the guillotine, the rack, thumb screws, and the "mask of shame." It is a grim but fascinating reminder of the medieval legal system, where confession was often extracted by pain. (Note: This section can be disturbing for young children, but it is presented with historical context). The display forces visitors to confront the brutal reality of law and order in the past.
Legends: The Battle of the Golden Spurs
While the castle itself is the setting for many local ghost stories involving executed prisoners, its history is tied to the famous Battle of the Golden Spurs (1302). Although the battle took place in Kortrijk, the Gravensteen was a focal point of the conflict between the Flemish commoners and the French nobility. The castle represents the feudal power that the Flemish guilds were fighting against. Today, the castle is the site of the "Battle of the Gravensteen," a re-enactment event, but in 1949, it was "captured" for real by rebellious students protesting the price of beer. This legendary prank, where students barricaded themselves inside and pelted police with rotten fruit, is celebrated as a moment of student defiance against authority.
Visitor Information
Getting There
Gravensteen is located at Sint-Veerleplein 11, right in the historic center of Ghent. It is easily reachable on foot from the main shopping streets or by Tram 1 (stop "Gravensteen"). It is an unmistakable landmark. For those arriving by car, there are several underground parking garages nearby (e.g., Vrijdagmarkt).
The Audio Guide
The visit is self-guided, but the castle offers a unique and highly praised audio guide. Narrated by the Flemish comedian Wouter Deprez, it tells the history of the castle with a heavy dose of humor and irony, making it entertaining even for those who usually find history dry. It is available in Dutch, English, French, German, and Spanish. It guides you through the Great Hall, the torture chambers, and the battlements.
Accessibility and Hours
As a medieval fortress, Gravensteen is not very accessible for wheelchairs or strollers. There are many steep, narrow spiral staircases and cobblestones. However, a virtual tour is available for those who cannot climb the stairs. The castle is open daily from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM (last entry at 4:40 PM), closed only on major holidays.
Winter Wonder Castle
During the Christmas period, the castle is transformed into the "Winter Wonder Castle." It is decorated with lights, festive music plays, and actors dressed as knights and damsels roam the halls, creating a magical atmosphere. It offers a completely different, warmer perspective on the stone fortress, making it a perfect winter destination.