The White Pearl of South Bohemia
Rising from the lush forests of South Bohemia like a fairy tale illustration, Hluboká Castle (Zámek Hluboká) is widely considered the most beautiful and romantic castle in the Czech Republic. With its snow-white facade, crenellated towers, and perfectly manicured gardens, it looks more like an English royal residence than a Central European fortress. This is no coincidence; it is often called the "Czech Windsor" because its 19th-century reconstruction was directly inspired by Windsor Castle in England. It is a monument to the immense wealth, power, and Anglophilia of the Schwarzenberg family, one of the most influential noble dynasties in European history.
Unlike the rugged, defensive castles of the Middle Ages, Hluboká is a palace designed for luxury, representation, and the noble pursuit of hunting. Every inch of its 140 rooms is decorated with a richness that is almost overwhelming, making it one of the most visited cultural monuments in the country.
History: From Guardian to Palace
The site's history stretches back to the mid-13th century when a gothic castle was built here by King Ottokar II of Bohemia to guard the Vltava River trade routes. For centuries, it passed through royal and noble hands, undergoing Renaissance and Baroque modifications. However, the defining moment came in 1661 when the property was bought by Jan Adolf I von Schwarzenberg.
The castle we see today is the vision of Prince Jan Adolf II von Schwarzenberg and his wife, Princess Eleonore. In 1838, the couple attended the coronation of Queen Victoria in London and visited Windsor Castle. Princess Eleonore was enchanted. Upon their return, they ordered a complete reconstruction of their ancestral home in the Romantic Neo-Gothic style. The project lasted from 1840 to 1871, employing the finest Viennese architects (Franz Beer and Damasius Deworetzky). The family lived here until 1939, when the last owner, Adolph Schwarzenberg, fled the Nazis. The castle was confiscated by the Gestapo and later nationalized by the Czechoslovak state in 1947.
Architecture: A Neo-Gothic Dream
The exterior of Hluboká is defined by its glowing white masonry, its complex skyline of turrets and chimneys, and its strict symmetry. It is surrounded by a vast English landscape park, completing the illusion of a British estate.
The Interiors
The tour of the interiors offers a glimpse into the staggering luxury of the 19th-century aristocracy. The walls and ceilings are covered in intricate dark wood paneling and coffering, carved by local craftsmen to such a high standard that it resembles lace. The Main Staircase is a masterpiece of woodworking. The *Library contains 12,000 volumes and a massive fireplace. The **Morning Salon** is decorated with rare tapestries from Brussels. The **Armoury** displays a vast collection of weapons and armor, reflecting the family's military history.
However, the most unique feature is the ubiquitous motif of the "Turk's Head." The Schwarzenberg coat of arms features a raven pecking at the eyes of a severed Turk's head (commemorating a victory against the Ottomans in 1598). This gruesome symbol appears on everything from the door handles to the stained glass windows, a stark contrast to the romantic architecture.
The Kitchens
One of the highlights for many visitors is the castle kitchen. Located in the basement, it was a technological marvel of its time. It features a massive roasting spit mechanism driven by the hot air rising in the chimney, huge copper vats, and even a potato-peeling machine. It illustrates the logistical scale required to feed the princely court and its hundreds of guests during hunting season.
The English Park and Riding School
Surrounding the castle is a vast English-style landscape park, which was meticulously designed to complement the Neo-Gothic architecture. It spans almost 200 hectares and features exotic trees, symmetrical flower beds, and winding paths perfect for romantic walks. The park was designed to create scenic vistas, with the white castle reflecting in the surrounding ponds. A notable feature within the park is the former Winter Riding School* (Zimní jízdárna). This large hall was used for equestrian training during the cold months. Today, it houses the Alšova South Bohemian Gallery (Alšova jihočeská galerie), which features an impressive collection of Gothic art from South Bohemia and the Bohemian Forest, as well as Dutch and Flemish masters from the 17th century. It is a cultural destination in its own right.
Legends: The Mirror of Eternal Youth
In the castle's bedroom, there is a beautiful mirror with an ornate frame. Legend has it that any woman who looks into this mirror will preserve her beauty and youth forever. However, there is a catch (as there always is in legends): if she looks into it with envy or vanity in her heart, she will age rapidly within a year. It is said that the Princess Eleonore herself used this mirror, accounting for her legendary elegance.
Visitor Information
Getting There
Hluboká nad Vltavou is located about 10 km north of České Budějovice (famous for its Budweiser beer) and about 150 km south of Prague. It is easily reachable by bus or train from České Budějovice. For those driving, there are parking lots at the bottom of the hill; a "land train" or a steep 15-minute walk brings you to the castle gates.
Tours
The castle is open year-round (except Mondays and some holidays; winter schedule is reduced). Visitors can choose from several guided tour routes: The Representation Rooms (the main tour), The Private Apartments, The Kitchen, or the Tower Climb (for views). Tours are available in Czech, English, German, and other languages. In summer, it is highly advisable to book tickets online in advance as tours sell out quickly.
Tips for Visiting
Photography is generally not allowed inside the main tour routes, so be prepared to capture memories with your eyes. The tower climb involves 245 steps but offers spectacular views of the South Bohemian countryside. After the tour, many visitors enjoy a boat ride on the nearby Munický pond or visit the Hluboká Zoo (Ohrada Zoo), which is located right next to the castle grounds. The zoo specializes in animals of Europe and temperate Asia and is a perfect addition to the trip for families with children.