The Unconquered Sentinel of the Rhine
Perched high on a slate cone rising 160 meters above the town of Braubach and the glistening Rhine River, Marksburg Castle is a unique phenomenon. In a region world-famous for its romantic ruins and reconstructed fortresses, Marksburg holds a singular title: it is the only hill castle on the Middle Rhine that has never been destroyed. While the fires of war, the cannons of the Thirty Years' War, and the armies of Louis XIV reduced its neighbors to rubble, Marksburg stood firm. Today, as the headquarters of the German Castles Association, it offers visitors an unparalleled journey into the authentic Middle Ages, presenting a structure that has evolved organically over 800 years without ever losing its original soul.
Walking through its gates is not like visiting a museum or a 19th-century fantasy palace like Neuschwanstein; it is a step back into the gritty, practical, and defensible reality of a medieval knight. Its white walls and slate-grey roofs are visible for miles, a landmark of the UNESCO World Heritage Middle Rhine Valley.
History: Nine Centuries of Resilience
The history of Marksburg begins in the early 12th century, mentioned first in documents from 1231, though the keep is likely older, dating back to 1100. It was built by the Lords of Eppstein to protect the silver mines in Braubach and to extract tolls from ships passing on the river. The name "Marksburg" comes from St. Mark, the evangelist to whom the castle chapel is dedicated.
Through the centuries, the castle changed hands between various noble families, including the Counts of Katzenelnbogen (who expanded the Gothic buildings) and the Landgraves of Hesse. Crucially, it was always occupied and maintained. During the Thirty Years' War (1618–1648), a period of devastation for Germany, Marksburg was besieged but never captured. Its strategic position and formidable defenses deterred attackers. Even the French troops of Louis XIV, who systematically destroyed castles on the Rhine in the late 17th century, bypassed Marksburg.
In the 19th century, the castle served as a prison and a home for invalid soldiers. In 1900, with the rise of Romanticism and interest in national heritage, the German Castles Association (Deutsche Burgenvereinigung) purchased the castle for the symbolic price of 1,000 Gold Marks from the Prussian government. Since then, they have meticulously preserved it, ensuring that it remains a living monument to medieval history.
Architecture: A Fortress Carved from Rock
Marksburg is a classic example of a "Hangburg" (hillside castle) that utilizes the natural topography for defense. Its layout is triangular, dictated by the shape of the rock cone it sits upon. The architecture is a palimpsest of styles, from Romanesque to Gothic and Renaissance, reflecting the additions made by successive owners.
The Defenses
Access to the castle is a lesson in medieval warfare. The path winds upwards through four medieval gates. The first is a drawbridge gate. The path then leads through a "Zwinger" (outer ward) to the Fox Gate. The most impressive feature is the "Reitertreppe" (Rider's Staircase), a rough-hewn tunnel carved directly out of the slate bedrock. The steps are widely spaced to allow horses to carry their riders up to the main courtyard. This dark, tunnel-like entrance would have been a nightmare for attackers, who could be easily targeted from above.
The Butter Churn Tower
Dominating the silhouette of the castle is the central Keep (Bergfried). It is 40 meters high and has a very unusual shape: a square lower section topped by a round upper section with a small lantern turret. This distinctive profile has earned it the nickname "Butterfass" (Butter Churn) Tower. It served as the final refuge and a watchtower. The entrance is high up on the wall, originally accessible only by a ladder that could be pulled up in times of danger.
Inside the Castle
The interiors of Marksburg are remarkably well-preserved. The Great Hall involves a gothic aesthetic with a large fireplace and deep window seats where the women of the court would sit to catch the light for embroidery. The *Castle Kitchen* features a gigantic open fireplace where an entire ox could be roasted; it is filled with authentic utensils, giving a sense of the immense labor required to feed the garrison.
Perhaps the most fascinating room is the Armoury (Rüstkammer). It displays the evolution of armor from antiquity to the early modern period. This "Gimbel Collection" includes replicas and originals showing how a Roman legionary evolved into a chain-mailed crusader and finally into a plate-armored knight. It clearly demonstrates the arms race between offense and defense.
Legends and Stories
The castle has its share of dark tales. The Torture Chamber, located in the stables, is a grim reminder of medieval justice. While it is debated whether torture was actually carried out here or if the instruments were moved here later for display, the collection is chilling. It includes the rack, the thumb screws, and a "Judas Cradle."
A more romantic legend involves the castle's chapel. It is said that St. Mark appeared to a weary crusader returning home, guiding him through a storm to the safety of the castle. In gratitude, the lord dedicated the chapel to the saint, giving the castle its name.
The Botanic Garden
Outside the main residential buildings lies the "Herbal Garden of the Middle Ages." Based on historical texts like the "Capitulare de villis" by Charlemagne and the writings of Hildegard of Bingen, this garden contains about 150 plants that were essential for medieval life. They are categorized into plants for cooking, plants for medicine, and plants for magic (specifically for warding off evil spirits and witches). It offers a fragrant and colorful counterpoint to the martial stone walls.
Visitor Information
Getting There
Marksburg is located in Braubach, about 10km south of Koblenz. It is easily accessible by train (Braubach station) followed by a steep 20-30 minute hike up the hill. There is also a "Marksburg Express" tourist train that runs from the town center to the castle parking lot during the season.
Tours and Hours
The castle can only be visited by guided tour (which takes about 50 minutes). Tours are available in German, English, French, and Italian. English tours are typically held at specific times (e.g., 1:00 PM and 4:00 PM in summer), so checking the schedule is advised. The castle is open daily year-round, except for December 24th and 25th. Opening hours are generally 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM in summer and 11:00 AM to 4:00 PM in winter.
The Marksburg Schenke
After the tour, visitors can relax at the Marksburg Schenke, the castle's restaurant. It offers panoramic views of the Rhine loop and serves traditional German cuisine, allowing you to dine like a Landgrave while watching the barges drift down the river.