The Colossus of Madrid
In a city known for its grand boulevards and museums, the Royal Palace of Madrid (Palacio Real de Madrid) stands unrivaled as a symbol of Spanish power and artistic heritage. It is a building of superlatives: with over 135,000 square meters of floor space and 3,418 rooms, it is the largest functioning royal palace in Europe—larger than Buckingham Palace and Versailles combined. While it is the official residence of the Spanish Royal Family, King Felipe VI and Queen Letizia actually choose to live in the more modest Zarzuela Palace on the outskirts of Madrid. The Royal Palace is preserved for state ceremonies, diplomatic gatherings, and, of course, for the millions of visitors who come to marvel at its opulent interiors.
Standing on a bluff overlooking the Manzanares River, the palace's chalk-white Colmenar stone façade glows golden in the Spanish sun. It is a masterpiece of Baroque and Classical architecture, designed to reflect the taste of the Bourbon dynasty that still sits on the throne today.
From Fortress to Palace
The site of the palace echoes the history of Madrid itself. In the 9th century, the Muslim Emir Mohamed I built a fortress here, known as a *Mayrit* or *Alcázar*, to defend Toledo from the advancing Christians. After Madrid was conquered by Alfonso VI in 1085, the fortress was used by the Kings of Castile.
For centuries, the Old Alcázar served as the royal residence. It was a sprawling, irregular medieval castle. But on Christmas Eve 1734, disaster struck. A fire broke out in the rooms of the French artist Jean Ranc. Fanned by strong winds and fueled by the timber frame of the old building, the fire raged for four days. The Alcázar was reduced to ashes, and countless artworks were lost.
The Bourbon Dream
King Philip V, the first Bourbon King of Spain (and grandson of Louis XIV of France), saw an opportunity in the tragedy. He ordered a new palace to be built—one that would rival the great palaces of Europe. Crucially, he ordered that it be built entirely of stone and brick, with no wood in the structure, to ensure it would never burn again.
The task fell to Italian architects. Filippo Juvarra created the initial ambitious design, but he died before construction could begin. His student, Giambattista Sacchetti, adapted the plans and oversaw the monumental construction, which lasted from 1738 to 1755. The result was a square building centered around a vast courtyard, blending the solidity of a fortress with the elegance of an Italian palace.
Inside the Palace
Visitors today enter a world of unimaginable luxury. King Charles III was the first monarch to inhabit the palace in 1764, and each subsequent ruler left their mark on the decoration.
The Grand Staircase
Designed by Sabatini, this main staircase is carved from a single piece of San Agustin marble. The lions guard the ascent, and the ceiling features a fresco by Corrado Giaquinto depicting 'Religion Protected by Spain'—a clear statement of the monarchy's divine right.
The Throne Room
This is the heart of the palace, unchanged since the reign of Charles III. The walls are covered in red velvet embroidered with silver thread. Enormous crystal chandeliers imported from Venice hang from the ceiling. But the true masterpiece is above: the ceiling fresco by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo, 'The Glory of the Spanish Monarchy'. It is considered one of the finest frescoes in existence, depicting the Spanish territories in the Americas and Philippines paying homage to the crown.
The throne itself features two golden chairs for the King and Queen, guarded by four bronze lions that were saved from the fire of the Old Alcázar.
The Royal Armoury
Often cited as the finest collection of its kind in the world (alongside the Imperial Armoury in Vienna), the Royal Armoury houses the personal weapons and armor of the Kings of Spain. The highlights are the suits of armor belonging to Emperor Charles V and Philip II. These are not just protective gear but works of Renaissance art, etched and gilded by the master armorers of Augsburg and Milan. Seeing the actual armor worn by Charles V at the Battle of Mühlberg (1547) brings history to life in a visceral way.
The Gasparini Room
This room is a Rococo explosion of botanical motifs. The floor, the embroidered silk walls, and the stucco ceiling all feature the same intricate floral pattern, creating a dizzying, immersive effect. It served as the King's dressing room and is a testament to the incredible craftsmanship of the 18th century.
The Royal Kitchens
Recently restored and opened to the public, the Royal Kitchens occupy a vast area in the basement. They are the best-preserved royal kitchens in Europe, still containing the original copper pots, cauldrons, and roasting spits from the 19th century. They offer a fascinating 'downstairs' perspective on the logistics of feeding a court of thousands.
Art and Culture
The palace is effectively a museum. The walls are lined with masterpieces that were saved from the Alcázar fire or commissioned later. You will find paintings by Caravaggio, Velázquez, Goya, and Rubens hanging casually in the corridors and apartments. The palace also houses the unique Stradivarius Palatinus collection—a set of five instruments (violins, viola, and cello) made by Antonio Stradivari, which are still used for concerts today.
Gardens and Grounds
Two major gardens flank the palace:
- Campo del Moro: Located to the west, sloping down to the river. This English-style romantic garden offers the most spectacular view of the palace's towering façade. It was only completed in the 19th century because it was historically impossible to connect the palace to the lower ground.
- Sabatini Gardens: Located to the north, these are formal Neoclassical gardens with trimmed hedges, fountains, and statues of Spanish kings. They sit on the site of the old royal stables and are a perfect spot to watch the sunset.
The Solemn Relay of the Guard
If you visit on the first Wednesday of the month (except Jan, Aug, Sept), you can witness the Solemn Relay of the Guard. This ceremony involves over 400 soldiers and 100 horses, dressed in period uniforms from the time of Alfonso XII and XIII. It takes place in the Armoury Square and is a spectacular display of military pomp, complete with a fife and drum band.
Visitor Information
The Royal Palace is located in the Plaza de Oriente, right in the center of Madrid.
- Tickets: Lines can be very long, often stretching across the plaza. It is strongly recommended to buy tickets online in advance. There are free entry hours for EU citizens on certain evenings, but the queues are even longer then.
- Photography: Photography is generally not permitted in the state rooms to protect the artworks and maintain the flow of visitors. You can engage the 'mental camera', but keep the phone in your pocket. Photography is allowed in the main courtyard and staircases.
- Timing: Allow at least 2 hours to see the main route. If you want to see the Kitchens and Armoury in detail, add another hour.
- Accessibility: The palace is fully accessible to wheelchair users, with elevators providing access to the upper floors.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Is the King there?
- It is unlikely. As mentioned, the King lives at Zarzuela Palace. However, if a state event is taking place, the palace will be closed to the public.
- Can I see the Crown Jewels?
- The Spanish Royal Crown and Scepter are on display in the Crown Room. Interestingly, the crown is never worn by the monarch; it is only present on a cushion during the proclamation ceremony.
- Is there a dress code?
- There is no strict dress code for visitors, but respectful attire is expected.