The Versailles of the Baltics
In the quiet, flat plains of southern Latvia, surrounded by miles of farmland, a miracle of architecture rises from the earth. Rundāle Palace (Rundāles pils) is not just a building; it is an exclamation point in the landscape. Often called the "Versailles of the Baltics," it is one of the finest examples of Baroque and Rococo architecture in northern Europe. With its yellow-and-white façade, sprawling French gardens, and lavish interiors, it seems to have been dropped by magic from the courts of Paris or St. Petersburg into the Latvian countryside.
This was the summer residence of the Dukes of Courland, a place built for pleasure, pomp, and power. After surviving wars, revolutions, and decades of neglect, it has been painstakingly restored to its original glory, allowing visitors to step back into the gilded world of the 18th century.
The Duke and the Architect
The story of Rundāle is the story of two ambitious men: Ernst Johann von Biron, the Duke of Courland, and Francesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli, the genius Italian architect who defined the Russian Baroque.
Biron was a favorite of the Russian Empress Anna Ioannovna, and his rise to power was meteoric. To cement his status, he commissioned Rastrelli—who would later design the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg—to build him a summer home. Construction began in 1736. Rastrelli poured his soul into the project, creating a palace that was both intimate and grand, perfectly proportioned to the landscape.
However, history had other plans. In 1740, Empress Anna died, and Biron was arrested and exiled to Siberia. The palace stood unfinished and empty for over 20 years. It wasn't until Catherine the Great reinstated Biron in 1762 that work resumed. By then, tastes had changed. The heavy Baroque of the earlier era gave way to the lighter, more playful Rococo style. This interruption is what gives Rundāle its unique character: a Baroque shell with a Rococo heart.
A Walk Through the Gilded Halls
The palace contains 138 rooms, arranged across two floors. The restoration work, led for decades by the legendary art historian Imants Lancmanis, is nothing short of miraculous. Every detail, from the silk wallpaper to the crystal chandeliers, has been recreated or restored.
The Golden Hall
The Throne Room, known as the Golden Hall, is the pièce de résistance. It is a riot of gold stucco and false marble (scagliola), created by the German sculptor Johann Michael Graff. The ceiling is painted with an allegorical scene glorifying the Duke's virtues. It is easy to imagine the rustle of silk dresses and the murmur of courtiers as the Duke sat on his throne, receiving foreign ambassadors.
The White Hall
In stark contrast to the Golden Hall, the White Hall was the ballroom. It was designed to be light and airy, with large windows and white stucco decorations depicting pastoral scenes. The reliefs show children playing, harvesting, and making music—a whimsical backdrop for the elaborate balls held here.
The Rose Room
One of the most unique rooms is the Rose Room. The stucco garlands on the walls feature painted porcelain flowers, creating a garden that blooms all year round. This room was dedicated to the goddess Flora and celebrates the beauty of nature, a theme that connects the palace to the gardens outside.
The French Garden
No Baroque palace is complete without a formal garden, and Rundāle's is a masterpiece. Designed by Rastrelli himself, it is the most significant French garden in the Baltics. It covers 10 hectares and features an intricate network of paths, bosquets (wooded areas), and pergolas.
The highlight is the Rose Garden, which aims to show the history of rose cultivation in Europe. It contains over 2,000 varieties of roses, including historical cultivars that would have been grown in the Duke's time. When the roses are in bloom (usually July), the air is thick with their scent.
The "Green Theatre," an amphitheater made of clipped hedges, is still used for concerts and opera performances in the summer, keeping the Duke's tradition of entertainment alive.
The Darker Days
Rundāle's history was not always one of balls and roses. After the Duchy of Courland was absorbed into the Russian Empire in 1795, the palace passed to the Zubov and Shuvalov families. During World War I, it was used as a hospital and a commandant's office by the German army. In 1919, during the Latvian War of Independence, it suffered significant damage.
The post-war years were even unkind. Under Soviet rule, the palace was used as a grain storehouse and a local school. The magnificent halls were partitioned, the gym was set up in the White Hall, and the precious parquet floors were damaged. It wasn't until the Rundāle Palace Museum was established in 1972 that the long, slow process of healing the building began.
Legends of the White Lady
Like many old buildings, Rundāle has its ghosts. The most famous is the "White Lady." Legend says she was a doctor's daughter who fell in love with a young nobleman living at the palace. The Duke, disapproving of the match, had the girl walled up alive in the palace walls (a common, if gruesome, trope in castle folklore). She is said to wander the corridors at night, a sad figure in a white dress, searching for her lost love. Museum staff working late have reported cold drafts and the sound of footsteps in empty rooms.
Another legend concerns the "Black Lady," said to be the ghost of a servant who died tragically. Sightings of her are considered an omen of bad luck, unlike the White Lady, who is merely sorrowful.
Planning Your Visit
Rundāle Palace is located about 80 km south of Riga, near the town of Bauska. It is a popular day trip from the capital.
- Best Time to Visit: Late spring and summer are ideal to see the gardens in bloom. The Garden Festival in July is the highlight of the year.
- Short vs. Long Route: Visitors can choose between the "Short Route" (representative halls) and the "Long Route" (which includes the Duchess's apartments and private rooms). The Long Route is highly recommended to see the more intimate side of palace life, including the incredible "Toilette Room" and the porcelain cabinet.
- Nearby: Combine your visit with Bauska Castle, a formidable 15th-century fortress just 12 km away. The contrast between the grim medieval castle and the airy Baroque palace perfectly illustrates the changing times.
Rundāle Palace is a testament to the resilience of beauty. It has survived empires and ideologies to stand once again as a symbol of culture and art. It is a place where you can lose yourself in the symmetry of a garden path or the sparkle of a chandelier, forgetting for a moment the chaotic world outside.