The Fortress on the Rock
Few castles in the world have a setting as dramatic as Dunnottar Castle. Perched on a 160-foot (50-meter) high conglomerate rock that juts out into the North Sea, it is surrounded by sheer cliffs on three sides. It is connected to the mainland only by a narrow, winding path and a steep flight of steps. For centuries, this natural defense made it an impregnable fortress, controlling the coastal trade routes to the north of Scotland. The geology itself is fascinating; the rock is 'Old Red Sandstone' conglomerate, often called 'pudding stone' because it looks like a pudding filled with raisins (the large pebbles embedded in the stone). This unique formation is incredibly hard and resistant to erosion, creating the perfect natural pedestal for a fortress.
History: William Wallace and the English Garrison
Dunnottar played a brutal role in the Wars of Scottish Independence. In 1297, the legendary William Wallace (depicted in the movie Braveheart) captured the castle from the English. According to the poet Blind Harry, the English garrison fled into the stone church for sanctuary. Wallace, showing no mercy, barred the doors and set the church on fire, killing everyone inside. You can still see the charred ruins of the chapel today, a solemn reminder of the violence of the middle ages.
The Earls Marischal and The Lion's Den
For centuries, Dunnottar was the seat of the powerful Keith family, the Earls Marischal of Scotland. They were one of the wealthiest families in the land, and despite the rugged location, they lived in luxury. The Earl's Lodging, built in the 16th century, contained a great hall, private chambers, and even a gallery.
One of the most interesting features is a suite of rooms known as the Lion's Den. It gets its name from the fact that the Earls Marischal once kept a pet lion here. The lion's roar would have echoed off the cliffs, a potent symbol of the family's power and status. Visitors can still explore the remains of these once-grand apartments, imagining the tapestries and fine furniture that once filled these cold stone shells. Another notable structure is Benholm's Lodging, a five-story tower house built into the rock face, which served as a prison and strongroom.
Saving the Honours of Scotland
Dunnottar's finest hour came in the mid-17th century. After King Charles I was executed, Oliver Cromwell's English army invaded Scotland. The Honours of Scotland (the Crown, Sceptre, and Sword of State) were moved to Dunnottar for safekeeping, as it was considered the strongest fortress in the domain.
Cromwell's troops besieged the castle for eight months in 1651-1652. With supplies running low and heavy cannons battering the walls, the fall of the castle was inevitable. The destruction of the Honours seemed certaināCromwell viewed them as symbols of monarchical tyranny and would have melted them down. However, a daring plan was hatched. Depending on the version of the story, the jewels were either smuggled out under the skirts of a local woman, Christian Fletcher, or lowered down the sheer cliffs in a basket to a servant gathering seaweed below. They were then buried under the floor of the nearby Kinneff Old Church, where they remained hidden for nine years until the monarchy was restored.
The Whigs' Vault: A Dark Chapter
Not all of Dunnottar's history is heroic. In 1685, during a period of religious persecution, 167 Covenanters (Presbyterians who refused to accept the King's control over the church) were marched into the castle. They were imprisoned in a cellar now known as the Whigs' Vault. Conditions were horrific. Men and women were packed into a single, unventilated room with no sanitation, knee-deep in mire. Many died of starvation and disease; others were tortured for attempting to escape (some fell to their deaths on the cliffs below). A memorial stone in the churchyard at Stonehaven commemorates those who perished, and the vault itself remains a chilling place to visit, said to be haunted by the restless spirits of the prisoners.
Ruin and Restoration
The castle's decline began after the Jacobite Rising of 1715. The 10th Earl Marischal supported the Stuart cause and, after the rising failed, was forced to flee into exile. His titles and estates were forfeited to the Crown. In 1720, the castle was sold to the York Buildings Company, which stripped it of everything valuableālead roofs, floors, and furnitureāleaving it a hollow ruin. It remained in this state until 1925, when the ruins were purchased by the Viscount Cowdray. The Cowdray family embarked on a massive preservation project, securing the walls and clearing the debris, saving this national treasure from falling into the sea.
Daily Life in the Castle
While the military history dominates the narrative, Dunnottar was also a busy home. Visitors can explore the remains of the Brewery and Bakery, essential for the survival of the castle's inhabitants. In the middle ages, beer was safer to drink than water, so the brewery was in constant operation. The large ovens in the bakery hint at the sheer volume of bread needed to feed the Earl's family, soldiers, and servants. These domestic ruins offer a poignant counterpoint to the grand military defenses, reminding us that ordinary people lived, worked, and died here.
Visitor Information
- The Walk: From the car park, it is a short but scenic walk to the cliff edge. Be prepared for many steps! You must descend the cliff to the gatehouse and then climb back up into the castle.
- Stonehaven: The nearby town of Stonehaven is a charming fishing port. A popular 40-minute coastal walk leads from the town harbour to the castle, offering spectacular views of the cliffs and seabirds (look out for puffins, kittiwakes, and fulmars in early summer!).
- Pop Culture: The castle's haunting silhouette was the primary inspiration for the DunBroch family castle in the Disney-Pixar movie Brave (2012). It also served as the setting for Franco Zeffirelli's 1990 adaptation of Hamlet, starring Mel Gibson and Glenn Close.
- Weather: The castle is completely exposed to the North Sea elements. It can be windy and cold even in summer, so dress appropriately with sturdy shoes.